They call 3 am the god's hour - in many religions, it is time for prayer, when it is possible to be closest to your creator. It is as if the dawn is being created at that hour, carefully worked into existance by the divine. It's soft and quiet, gentle and reflective, and the air seems to be a thin veil between us and another world. It is not an hour I often see, though if my body wakes, I try to appreciate it a little before drifting back to sleep, smiling with the willy wagtails who still chatter even at night.
This morning, however, I was awake so early because my body didn't trust my alarm clock and my mind had serious fomo - fear of missing out on the pre dawn waves that I knew were going to be rolling in after last night's chaotic soup at one of my favourite breaks. When the surf is that big, there's not many places to surf unless you are a big wave rider. On the low tide, there were far too many people out there and far too much water sloshing around, dangerous for beginners, and hard work. A friend's longboard was smashed into, causing a lot of damage, by a beginner who really shouldn't have been out in such conditions. That's the thing about beginner surfers - they don't realise what they aren't capable of and can get into trouble quickly.
At 3 am, then, I doze off a little whilst I focus on my breath, trying to meditate and take advantage of this divine time, and not really succeeding as I fall into a restless sleep until 4.30 am. It's a half hour drive to the beach, and I want to be there as the light comes, so I pop the kettle on, tug on jeans and a jumper. The weather is unseasonably cold - whilst summer starts in a week, officially, the weather doesn't agree, and I don't really mind. There's something raw and wild about the cold weather and big waves rolling in. Early in the week I surfed in a storm, the horizon purple and blue, with the snow white bombies (large waves out to sea that only break on big swells) cruising through like ghosts. Magic.
I stand and watch for a moment, until my friend runs down to meet me, giving me a helluva fright though I knew she was coming. Within minutes we're in rubber - cleverly, we surfed in thinner suits yesterday and kept the thicker ones dry ready for the chill of dawn.
It's beautiful out there - no one out for an hour, the light gradually filling the space, a rainbow catching the mist, the glow, the big waves hitting the reef in the distance and exploding in white rooster tails. I'm filled with fucking joy - it explodes in my chest and vibrates out my fingers. My new board, which I was hesitant about because I'd only surfed it in shitty waves, comes into it's own on clean, velvety faces, and I begin to get how this board operates. It's good, I'm happy, and I don't have to sell it after all. It's always a bit strange adapting to a new piece of equipment.
At home I settle in to check HIVE comments, enjoying a warm cuppa as my body defrosts a little. The grey shrike thrush is outside the window in the grape vine. It makes an incredible song - go ahead and listen in the background as you HIVE for a taste of Australia. It loves to find little hollows and alcoves to echo and amplify it's song from. When it's in the corrugated iron garage it's song can be almost deafeningly loud!
This to me feels like therapy - there is nothing more lovely, more nurturing, more divine than being enveloped by the sounds, sights and smells of the natural world. I have six hours of peace before Jamie comes home now - I adore my lover, but I also love these long, stretched out gentle moments of waves and birdsong and the clarity it gives me, uncluttering my mind.
I have chickens to sort out, the garden to weed, covers to make for the foam seats in the Defender, dishes to do, and whilst this will make me officially 'busy', there's space to fill now, and that's just precious.
Hope your Thursday is, or was, as good as this one.
With Love,
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Such vivid imagery - I’m licking the wind-blown, sea-salt off my lips. God, you can write!
There’s nothing like the wild sea and open sky when you’re out early on the waves. I’m dreadfully envious 💕🤗❤️
Sea salt remnants on the lips, eyebrows, nose, ends of my hair, between my toes (I don't lick those)... That's 🌊 the ocean life! I'll take you out with me in the 🌅 morning.
Thanks so much for your support. From a writer of you calibre, it's truly an honour. I'm humbled every time. Hive has taught me to be a better writer. I do love it so - but you know that feeling, right?
It must be exciting to learn surfing. While it is challenging, it must be fulfilling to reach your goal. Keep it up!
I have been surfing many, many years. I love it so much.
The sky must be beautiful, the audience is interested, but I also focus on it, enjoy sharing.
The sky was sooo pretty. Some times the moon is setting as the sun rises, and sometimes even dolphins!
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Pre-dawn is always a special time. I remember getting up before light and driving up in the mountains to fish. Walking down to the stream and waiting for enough light to cast. I have always been impatient but nature has its way of slowing you down and making you appreciate its beauty. Lovely pictures btw 🙂
Oh yes you know the feeling. I have no patience either and live fast - thank goodness for nature
Had not heard 3AM referred to in this way. I am often awake at that time, though not last night.
I am glad you are happy with the new board. I can't imagine wanting to be in water in the cold, suits or not!
Haha isn't it funny, us humans with a diverse taste in passions!!! I know, many people think I'm mad! I love that time of morning. Sometimes I just wake for a pee and just listen to the night for half an hour or look at the stars before nodding back off.
Gosh - I was filled with joy alongside you... what a beautiful time of the morning... I should know. I am often awake at that time writing... It is a stillness and calm that is so restful... I love my quiet time. Looks like you had a beautiful time out on the board. Those pics are to die for! I think my whole soul would be filled up with joy to the point of overflow... although I don't much like the cold so prefer to be indoors at that hour !LOLZ ... but if the night air/early morning air is friendly enough... then... hmmm... what a gorgeous time to be alive... and awake in the outdoors. !LUV
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Oh yes sometimes I write early too, before Jamie wakes, especially if we have a busy day ahead.
That's inspiring enough to make me like life for a moment haha. I will have to go to bed after 3 a.m. to experience the God hour. I need it but I won't be able to get up at 3 since bed time is after midnight.
Oh gosh my bedtime is 9.30 😂😂😂