Say hello to the so-called walled city inside Manila, Philippines. Yes, Intramuros is one of the places that's full of our people's colonial history. Come along with me as I show you the "hidden" things in and around this place.
I call them "secret" because many of these are something most people don't bother to look at. Or, you know, everybody's too busy with life that we don't notice most of the things that are always around us.
Before I start, did you know August is our National History Month? Yeah I know it's already October now but I only realized it when I saw a big banner in Manila last year. Haha. I saw it on the way there. If not for this I probably wouldn't have known at all!
Okay let's get on with the tour! I will share with you some of the artsy things I saw before the August pandemic lockdown last year. 😁
♦ Hello Again Intramuros!
Let me tell you about this popular place. This historical district inside Manila City is about four and half centuries old! Having been established in 1571, many things happened here. No wonder it's famous.
Historians and other history lovers come inside its walls to know more about the past (since it was built until the present). This place is quite old but most probably still "young" as compared to the Ancient European or Asian historical places. Lol. Come on, it was only constructed by the Spanish conquerors during the late 16th century.
There are many areas to visit here. One is a fortress, another is Jose Rizal's bronze "footsteps", some historical things like an old church and more!
Ah, I still feel like I haven't been to many places inside it though. Somehow I have never felt like doing any tour by myself or with a group. I just take pictures of the things I pass by whenever I am there.
Anyway this is why I was in Intramuros: Last year I decided to undergo a training for another career and picked a school in this place. I just chose the easiest to get to somehow. Unfortunately that certain institute's way of running their trainings is not so good at all. It was disappointing to see and experience so let's not talk about that.
So in the middle of May 2021 I joined a practicum and its training exam was held in Cavite. We went to the walled city first as a meeting place for the free ride to our provincial destination. Upon getting on the bus, I wasn't able to look at anything outside since I ended up sitting at the back. I failed to notice anything in the area that morning.
We came back around half past one in the afternoon. That was the only time I could see what was around there. Hehe.
Below is the first historical object I saw once I got off the bus. I don't remember being in this place before so I took a picture when I saw it. Yeah it's a street label but it seemed like it has some sort of significance.
Still curious about what I took a picture of, I looked around and then saw something I disregarded but then went back to.
A vandalized historical marker on Recoletos St.
I was intrigued. If you stand right next to it, there's obviously no church on that street. Seeing it made me wonder why it was there. 😅
It was only when I checked online that I found out what happened. I also realized I didn't see the explanatory notice (next to it) about a church that used to be there. After reading, I felt a bit sad.
On Google Maps there's a picture of the important marker. It says The Church of San Nicolas used to be there but it got destroyed during the Second World War. In 1959 the rubbles were cleared and by 1977 the land was sold. Well, there's a piece of Intramuros history for you.
The war torn Recoletos Church (The Church of San Nicolas) in Intramuros after World War II. Photo by John Tewell.
From there I went on my merry way to my route home while taking more pictures. Of course it was not just a one time trip to the place. Hehe. There's more below.
By late July 2021 I had to go back to the school because I almost forgot to get the training certificate from back in May. 😂 Come on self, why oh why? 😆 Somehow the pandemic made me get used to staying at home too much. Eventually certain situations forced me to attend another face to face training instead of the online one I enrolled to. That's why I was able to go there again.
So of course I got my first certificate and then I went to the training. Good thing we were sent home earlier than supposed to so I had plenty of time to look around!
♦ What's Just Outside the Walls of Intramuros?
Since this place is in the City of Manila and I go home somewhere in Quezon City I of course had to go through the exits of the walled city first. Initially I passed through the main passageway because I rode one of the pedicabs...
Entrance view to Intramuros via Calle Victoria.
If you look at the photo above, you will see some people on bikes with a sidecar. That's the one I rode on during my first time being in that walled area again last year. (On my third and last trip there I just walked out via Calle Victoria. Haha.)
During the second time I went there, somehow I decided to go the opposite way to get out of Intramuros. I followed some people going a certain direction and voila! I was led to another passageway! 😲
The view going to Intramuros via General Luna St.
Actually it was farther than I expected. This was on another road so I had to walk more before I could reach the underpass outside. That's how I could get to the other side of the street to get a ride home. Whew.
Intramuros signage over the General Luna St. passageway.
Look how the sign is not as well maintained as the one at the main entrance. Well it was still worth taking a photo of this side. Why not when I was at a farther exit than I had previously gone through. 😅 Might as well make the most out of getting "lost".
Here, look at the map. This one is about a kilometer away to the other passageway I should have gone to.
Screenshot via Google Maps.
As you can see, there's an icon of a person playing golf. Yes, there's also a golf course around the walls of Intramuros. As previously mentioned in my golf article, this is where the sport was first played in the Philippines. 😉 I told you this is a very historical place. Haha.
One time when I passed by it, the gates were open. I didn't go inside though but I took a picture of the greenery and that's it.
Intramuros golf course.
Plenty of things to see huh? Okay so moving on...
Since I wasn't familiar with that part of Intramuros, I kinda thought twice if I would go back inside or just continue on that other route. I have never been on the other road before but since it was hot I decided to keep walking.
You know, I never really noticed what's around that part of General Luna street. I rarely go to Intramuros so of course it came as a surprise when I saw several "new" things outside of it. For example, this statue!
Juan Luna statue outside Intramuros.
I never knew there were other sculptures around the place. I certainly didn't until I went the wrong way. Haha.
The picture above is of the statue of Juan Luna. He's one of the celebrated heroes, revolutionary and historical artist of the Philippines. His most notable painting is the Spoliarium.
In 1983 the monument is said to have been erected by The Philippine Italian Association. His 120th death anniversary was commemorated there, on Dec. 8, 2019, by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP).
Awesome right? Anyway so after taking the picture I continued to walk towards the underpass. A short distance away I saw something again! Wow what's that massive white building across the street? It turns out it's the National Museum of Fine Arts (NMFA)! Oh hey!!! ♥️
Fortunately I chanced upon a kalesa (horse drawn carriage) in front of it too! There's a traffic light ahead of them with the stop light on so all the vehicles were stationary.
The National Museum of Fine Arts across Intramuros in Manila. Photo by Art x Stephanie Rue.
The National Museum of Fine Arts across Intramuros in Manila. Photo by Art x Stephanie Rue.
At the time I had never been inside NMFA yet. I definitely added it to my list of must visit places in Manila right there and then! Haha. Actually it made me think of the Malacañang Palace too! Perhaps it looks way better than this right? Soon soon, one day I will be able to go where the country's presidents live and work.
So there I was, across the street from this great museum when I noticed a big statue and some markers as well. No pics of the first marker though since I was busy taking pictures of the impressive piece of architecture at the other side of the road. Haha. 😅
After I was done taking pics of NMFA I finally focused on the other wonders behind me. Past the statue I mentioned is this other GomBurZa marker. There's a logo signage too.
The GomBurZa marker and 2022 logo was launched on Feb. 17, 2021.
GomBurZa is the combination of the last names of three martyred Catholic Filipino priests during the 19th century. Fathers Gomez, Burgos and Zamora were accused of causing the Cavite province mutiny against the Spanish colonizers in the country. They were charged with treason and sedition.
Eventually the three were executed, no thanks to the local Spanish authorities. Their garroting was the last straw which caused the beginning of the revolution or our country's fight for freedom.
The GomBurZa monument and the new marker.
In 1972, apparently the bronze statue was originally erected in Plaza Roma fronting the Manila Cathedral. It was part of the commemoration of the centennial anniversary of their martyrdom. Eventually it was transferred at Intramuros in 1980. However, over the years the area surrounding it was neglected and the monument was even vandalized.
By August 2018 a new Liwasang GomBurZa was launched, improving the derelict area. (Back then there were trees in the island center of the street blocking the view of NMFA. It's sad to see the trees are already gone.) That project was a collaboration of the National Museum and the Intramuros Administration.
As you can see from the photos above and below, now everything is clean and well-maintained. ♥️
Declared as a National Monument on Feb. 17, 2021 by the NHCP.
This timeless piece of sculpture was made by the late artist Solomon Saprid. He was known for the kinetic quality of his work.
Well, this 7th national monument looks fascinating, right? Sorry but I wasn't able to include the third priest from this angle. Ehehe.
Oh hey, sadly this is the end of this article. Don't worry I will share more about the most noticeable improvements I saw in Manila last year.
Anyway what do you think of the things I've shared so far?
XOXO,
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Written by @artgirl for Hive
© Art x Stephanie Rue / Lucy Stephanie
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