Every day of this 5-day hike on the Wild Coast of South Africa was unique. The views were similar, but the weather, rivers, beaches with no shells or shells as far as the eye can see. It all varied so much. And this day was no different.
We left Lucingweni village in mist. It had rained most of the night leaving mud puddles for us to negotiate.
Early on we passed an interesting looking wooden structure which we realised was a very primitive sled for transporting goods or materials. We wondered what it was being used for now…maybe a chicken coop.
The path changed from muddy road to muddy single track and turned down the hill. Lucingweni had been about 3 kilometres inland so we had to make our way back to the coast.
We went around and down a slippery hill and just at the bottom we found our first mangrove forest of the trip. You probably won’t find mangroves in too many other places in South Africa, but here in the old Transkei the climate is just warm and humid enough to support the mangroves.
The ground was crawling with crabs and our doggie friends were completely obsessed with catching breakfast.
On we went through dense forest until we eventually popped out of the bush onto a rock shelf on the edge of a river.
This was our first big river crossing of the day. The Mtakatyi river is large and is most likely home to a couple different types of sharks. Luckily most of them won’t attack humans, but with our packs on our backs we weren’t in a position to swim for it.
We piled into the tin boat and within a couple trips we had all been moved to the opposite side of the river further downstream at the beach.
The cool overcast weather made for perfect hiking and although it was humid, it wasn’t cold.
We took off our shoes for a long beach walk through another big her of cows. Some of the bulls had decided to fight over a female.
Our accompanying dogs had started responding to our calls and whistles and left the cows alone this time, rather spending their time digging for crabs in the sand.
The beach came to abrupt stop with a huge hill ahead so we took the opportunity to take a swim before we continued.
I sat on a rock while a couple others cooled off and along walked a cow calling for her calf. As I turned to look up the hill I noticed a not so young calf frantically running down the ridge of the hill to his waiting mama where he quickly started suckling. She must have been feeling full and needed to lighten her load 😅.
I decided to head up the big hill before the others so that I could take my time. There wasn’t a very clear path so we just headed straight up the middle and I’m so glad we did. It gave us a chance to catch our breath before we headed down the other side of the hill towards yet another beach and more cows.
This day was turning into a LOT of beach walking on very sore feet.
We eventually made it to Presley Beach where we pushed on for another 2 kilometres. Just as we reached the end it started raining and for the first time we pulled out our pack covers and rain jackets.
Tom, our guide, wanted to take us back onto a road, but our group had other ideas and decided to rather follow the coast on the rocks. It was beautiful but in the rain it turned pretty slippery.
We had a couple miffed hikers who didn’t enjoy this detour but it was so worth it. Once we had passed the rocks we found the most beauty shell beach. The shells were about a meter and half deep and heaven for any shell lovers out there. My friend Val was absolutely in her element and loving every minute.
We followed the group up the hill and eventually made it down to yet another beach. Mist of the walking from now on was barefoot and in a light drizzle.
Our last river crossing for the day was the Mdumbi River. This time the tide was high and we crossed the river at hip height carrying our bags the dogs that had now almost completed two whole days of hiking and more that 16 kilometres per day.
We made it to the end of Mdumbi beach and up the last stretch of dirt road to Vukani Backpackers.
Vukani was just what we needed after a long wet day. Hot showers with a resident giant toad, intermittent electricity to charge our phones in the main building and a kitchen that made Nachos and Pizza!
We all gathered on the deck to catchup, have a drink and marvel at the two dogs that had made the journey with us.
Just as we had arrived at Vukani, the owner of the place asked us if the dogs were ours? Gabi told him that they had joined us back at Mpande 2 days before and that we had all become fond of them. To our surprise he offered to take them in and give them a home at Vukani.
We were all so thrilled with the outcome and glad the dogs would love a great life in a comfortable home with plenty dog food.
Birthdays and birthday cake on a hike is now my new favourite thing! Gail got so spoilt and although the plans didn’t quite work out we all still got to have cake.
The next morning, after a good nights sleep, we said goodbye to our furry friends and left them behind at Vukani, their new home.
It was bitter sweet to leave them but we knew they would be cared for and have a good life with Vals, their new owner.
Here’s a map of the route we took and the distances we covered on the 4th day of hiking the Wild Coast.
We only had 1 more day to go so watch this space for the final day of hiking and our visit to the Hole in the Wall.
What beautiful dogs!
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What can I say about such untouched beauty. You guys had a terrific time out there and the scenery is to die for.
!PIZZA
It really was brilliant! It’s been awesome to relive it writing the blogs and remembering every step. I could easily go back.
Always nice to relive it afterwards and to highlight the special moments.
It really makes life so worthwhile.
!LUV
Looks like quite the adventure you had there.
Thanks! It was a brilliant hike. Only 1 more day of hiking to blog about.
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That's a supper stunning trail @zo3d
The mountain, beach, river and mangroves are so beautiful, I can feel the fresh air through your post. And the dogs seem to have a happy day too.
It really was incredible! The air was probably more humid than fresh 😅. We were all wet whether it rained or not so it made little difference. But it was lovely a d so different to Cape Town where I live.
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Good walk. Walking along the river is relaxing
It was wonderful! I’ll post about the final day of the hike tomorrow. We had to cross another very river by boast and it rained for the entire morning. 😅
The photos of the beach from the hillside were incredible! Wow! Such gorgeous, but rugged, country.
So many friends on this trip - and adding new ones, the dogs, along the way. So fun!
Thanks for sharing these pics and your story of the trip. South Africa is definitely on my short list for travel destinations.
Cheers!