After my adventure on the Playa Calavera, I decided to avoid dirt roads from now on, at least on this trip. So I took it as a welcome sign when I heard that the road into the San Pedro Mártir mountains was paved. There was a place I really wanted to visit, after reading their website. El Rancho la Concepción is a forest in the middle of the desert, where a biologist couple run a destination of regenerative tourism. A highly inspiring combination of environmental protection, education, and recreation that I could not wait to experience for myself. I had been in contact with the owners for a while, and they were expecting me. However, it would take me a while before I actually made it there.
My first destination was another ranch nearby, called Rancho Meling. The reason was, I had to get connected to the internet to do some work, and they were the only place nearby that offered it. But getting there proved to be a bit of a challenge. The road leading to Meling was paved, all right, but it came at such impossible inclines (10% to even 20% according to my app) that my bike simply couldn't handle it. After getting my chain stuck under the cassette (and cutting my finger badly trying to get it unstuck), I realized I had to walk my bike up - and sometimes down those steep grades.
When I finally arrived at the gate of Meling, I was confronted with their access path: a long, steep downhill trail made of fine sand. Precisely the kind of thing I had decided to avoid! But by that time I simply wanted to arrive, so started walking my bike down. Half an hour later I made it to the ranch. I checked in, took a shower, attended my wounded finger, had a superb hamburger for dinner, and taught my classes the next day. But throughout all this time I knew, it would be a major task getting out of there.
In the meantime I was coordinating with Vitza and César from the Rancho la Concepción, who happened to be in Ensenada on a supply run. They said, their neighbor from the KM66, a roadside restaurant, was willing to give me a ride, but I had to get there first. That meant climbing out of the Meling Ranch, and riding another 16 km, which would take me up another 800 meters, a ratio that suggested such steepness, where I would definitively have to push my bike most of the way. Also at Meling I could not find anyone to give me a ride.
After my second night, I had formed my escape plan: I would push my bike up the sandy slope, and then simply ride back to the main road, abandoning my plans of visiting the Rancho la Concepción. And then, suddenly a Scottish bird watcher offered me a ride. We'd have to leave in the early morning at 4 a.m. but he would take me to the KM66, from where I'd get a ride to my destination. Sweet!
After an adventurous morning I finally made it to the Rancho la Concepción. Once the guys from the KM66 got me to the driveway I understood everything. It was way worse than anything I could have imagined. Vitza's words rang true: "Don't bother with your loaded road bike. Even for a mountain bike with no cargo it's difficult to get up here." Six kilometers of extremely steep ups and downs over rocky, sandy terrain took us half an hour in a pick-up truck. I gave the guys 100 pesos each for their effort, and when Vitza took me back after my stay, I found the 250 she charged me for it not exaggerated.
But what I encountered at the ranch was beyond belief. Every minute of waiting for rides, every overpriced hamburger, and every drop of blood from my finger was definitely a price worth paying for it. The most gorgeous, beautiful nature surrounding us. Pure, pristine water flowing through the valley. A warm, and generous hospitality of the owners, employee, and volunteer. And a night sky with a full moon that unfolded its spectacular magic.
The philosophy of the place is centered on returning to the quiet simplicity of our basic existence. Enjoying nature in its purest form. Detaching ourselves from the noisy distractions of virtual life. Turning off our phones, our lights, and social media to be aware and present in the actual world around us. To appreciate our connection with the people around us, and the natural world we're all part of.
As the highlight of my stay, I had the great pleasure and honor to shoot a proper interview with Vitza and César, which should hopefully be ready to be published in the foreseeable future. More about that later. But all in all, I couldn't feel happier and luckier about my time at the Rancho la Concepción, from the first until the very last moment.
My euphoria lasted well through the day of my ride back. From the KM66 I rode mostly downhill to Meling, where I happened to pass the Scottish ornithologist. Then further downhill, back to the main road in the village of Díaz Ordáz, where I reunited with Irene, a local cyclist I met on my way up the mountain. She invited me to spend the night at her place, where she made me a fabulous dinner that could never be surpassed by anything in a restaurant. Her 14 year old son Alexander Leonel is also an aspiring mountain bike racer who was happy to show off his bike. This wonderful hospitality was the cherry on top of my already amazing experience in the region of the Sierra de San Pedro Mártir.
Wow what an adventure. Those hills look daunting to say the least and I'm glad you got a ride for some of it. THey do say the best destinations are the hardest to get to. Looks amazing.
I'm so glad they came out daunting in the pics. Those uphill roads are insane. Like, ever heard of switchbacks? But I'm so glad I waited and took the ride early morning to an unknown place, where I could have potentially gotten stuck too. Otherwise I would never have made it to that wonderful place!
Oh man yes we have done some hairy switchback in Morocco! I find keeping options open when you travel, and allowing for change of itinery, makes for some unexpected and even more wonderful experiences.
Hahaha, I'm sure YOU have heard of switchbacks. What I meant is, they could have built some switchbacks here, instead of going straight up the mountain. Though yes, if the hill is steep enough even a switchback can be scary.
I am sure it was tough to get there but the landscape is breathtaking and hospitality you describe makes the area worth a visit. Not sure if on a bike as you have done but definitely worth getting there.
Thanks for sharing
Exactly! The Baja California is very popular for motorcycles, especially dirt bikes and other off-road vehicles. And now I know exactly why.
What an adventure... sweat, burgers, blood, a birdwatcher... it would make a great book 😀 So glad you got to experience that ranch and enjoyed it 100%!
Enjoy your ride
A great book you say? Hmmm... I think you could be on to something!
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