Locals take advantage of the new cycle and footpath which now circumnavigates all the way around Lake Maprachan
Why is it called 'The Darkside'?
Hardly looks it with street lamps all the way, a great big natural lake and reservoir and plenty more around! The name comes from way back, when Pattaya was a lot smaller than today, and anything 'on the other side of the road' (not on the coastal side) of the main Sukhumvit road used to be so called 'darkside'. The name prevails today. Expats used to joke among themselves, if you ran out of money and fell on tough times, you would be alright - just move to the dark side! Actually, there was some truth in it. Today however, more than ever actually choose to live here. It's away from the tourist hassles and has more to offer than most realize. Welcome to life by the lake.
Above; Everything in 'Green' is frequently referenced by an outdated nickname, 'The Darkside'. The blue splodge at the bottom middle of the map is Lake Maprachan, where all the images were taken
Below - Over the line of trees and keep going down the hill about 5km, you will reach the seaside tourism metropolis of Pattaya city (orange area of the map above). Up here on the lake, there is an entirely different atmosphere and pace of life.
Looking across the lake. Birds like hanging out on the dead tree, and using it as a base for fishing.
Lighting Up The Dark Side
Indeed until recent times, development having been continual in the last 10-15 years it really did used to be all dark up here. No restaurants bars or cafes, very limited street lighting, and mostly just tapioca, rice and buffalo around. Essentially a rural Thai area which the city of Pattaya has gradually begun swallowing up into it's own ever growing metropolis. Some parts are still like this, 'dark' (undeveloped) however you have to venture down the country lanes off the main thoroughfares which connect the city to find it these days. We'll be visiting such a location soon, so follow for more slices of Thai life you won't see in all the tourist books!
You'll encounter all kinds of wildlife in Thailand. Some of it you won't want to touch. Like this, this is a big no right here! Maybe cute but even put your fingers near - not even touching - and it might fire hundreds of those tiny needles onto your skin. Itchy and painful.
Don't let a Reputation Fool You!
Pattaya of course has a notorious reputation, you just have to google to read a lot of shocking things which may put you off, or make you think it's only a place for old men to try and find love with underage Thai hookers. Reality is far different these days, even if some of that does still exist - it's in under 1% of the total land area and pretty much the rest is pretty much normal Thailand. Not that Thailand is by any means, erm, 'Normal' ... it's colorful, cultural, beautiful, bewildering and fascinating all at once - and those being the primary reasons I and many others get hooked, with a desire to never leave!
Outside of the main areas of downtown Pattaya, things are not only cheaper, they are well connected to major highways, have great climate, and an endless number of activities. Plus Bangkok is less than 2 hours by highway.
Top place to live in Thailand? Quite possibly ...
To many, it's secretly become the top place to live in the country for expats, and the reasons are so numerous I'd have to divide them up into chapters and write a book ... those people have overcome the 'stereotype' to discover what the area truly has to offer - and it is a lot!
There are other reasons - other areas might be more stunning and beautiful however it's all the infrastructure, mod cons, hospitals and western-level services available which it make so very livable - and not in the steaming hot congested and concrete jungle of Bangkok.
This field is often used to hold local events and concerts, and sits across from the local Buddhist temple on the lake. Other times, it's a nice open space to walk around or walk the dog.
This is one part of the 'darkside', Lake Maprachan. With it's naturally gorgeous tree-lined beauty feature (a lake) and activities, has over recent years become a popular destination for travelers, locals, and long term residents alike.
Why You Must Try a Dirt Bike
From this area of Pattaya there are all kinds of off-road adventures available. This area is very popular for dirt and trail bikers. Access straight into the back-country 'green lanes' for absolutely HUNDREDS of kilometers of trails. Some have said it's the best region for it in all Thailand, if not beyond. The fact is you can be out in what feels really like wilderness, yet you'll rarely be far from help either. That's not to say you can't get lost and should never venture solo without a proper idea and a backup to call. Experienced tour guides are numerous who will buddy up with you to go on a serious off-road adventure around the province. Expect to see parts of Thailand way off the beaten track (or even a paved road) which transport you back to another era. Then blast off on your dirt bike for more adrenaline fueled fun, then back home in time for tea!
Accommodation, cafes, restaurants can be seen lining the road on the opposite side. At the right times of day, the lake has a real aura of Southeast Asia to it. That certain Apocalypse Now! sensation with the right light, swampy lake edge, palm trees, and shack businesses ...
A local tries his luck fishing over a freshwater stream which feeds the lake.
Local 'GRAB' drivers 'grab' some hammock time, whilst waiting for the app to ping them their next set of orders.
Wondering right down to the lake edge (when the water level is low) and a nice viewpoint away from anyone. There's also a bench to sit on just out of shot in the foreground.
Looking closely out across the swampy parts at the lake edge, all kinds of stalks and crane birds hang around to hunt and gather.
This stream feeds the lake, which in itself is a drinking water reservoir. There isn't a trace of litter and the water is crystal. Good to know!
I thought of a new game - photograph GRAB riders taking naps. It's fun, like finding Pokemon! There's always one to be found.
*Natural stream running into the lake. Amazed at how beautifully pristine and clean it is. They must keep it this way to protect the lake water from too much contamination (we don't drink tap water in Thailand all the same, reservoir water is for showers, cleaning teeth etc).
Thanks for Reading!
Hope you enjoyed this little slice of life in Thailand, even if it focuses just on the slightly mundane - it's an insight into daily life and the type of areas you can expect to find living almost anywhere in Thailand. Most focus only on the adventures and popular places, so I thought why not dig a little deeper and bring you some of the generally lesser reported areas!