After touring Nazare town, we headed for a wild camp around the corner. It's still officially Nazare area so I can say I surfed it haha ..
This was a fantastic place and we scared a spot overlooking the ocean where we ended up staying for three days! Here's a drone shot someone sent us - what a position hey!! You had to get there early to get such a primo view. Honestly it was heaven on earth, especially as the wind has dropped.
We got the boards off the roof for the offshore at LAST (been onshore and windy basically whole time in Europe) and surfed some small glassy waves. Jamie had to carry my board up the cliff as it was insanely steep and long - I wouldn't surf unless he did so. I was pretty nervous actually but we were talked into it by a guy we met going out for a surf. He was a pro surfer and had a 4x4 so stopped to talk to us about ours. His other passion was tuning Rangers so he was really into offroading. Check him out on Insta - his name is @londonalmida. Really nice guy. Anyway he gave me the push I needed to surf a break that seemed intimidating to me.
It was a little worrying paddling out across a bumpy channel through the set but it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be and after my first wave I realized it was easy! Kinda punchy but not that big - to be honest it was about two to three feet which is my utter limit!
Chatted to a surfer who was from Norway - girls tend to chat in the water more than the boys. Imagine the winter suits they have up there! We actually chat to a lot of people on the road because Butters draws attention. She's definitely not a comfy Merc Sprinter with all the comfort that brings. Sometimes we long for the comfort, but we'd miss the quirk and the conversations. And people sending you drone shots haha.
I felt better surfing here than Imsouane as it was less crowded on this little break and less hectic with the big swell we had down there.. Just had to dodge the fisherman with their ropes and lines in the channel.
Kinda like surfing a punchier Urquarts so I felt quite at home and had some fun making the take offs and learnt a few tricks I hadn't embraced before. The Atlantic was pretty bloody cold but it felt good to get wet. Thank God for my constant yoga stretches on the road as they enable my hips to move the board about like they need to. And muscle memory is a grand thing as you don't ache in the way you expect.
To be honest I haven't missed surfing much as I thought - I guess the thrill of the road and the constant moving has kept my attention in the now. Before, it was only the ocean that could do that. Still, my heart was full of joy out there and we are hoping to get a few more waves before this leg of the trip is done. And if we don't, we've had some cracking ocean views!
With Love,
Are you on HIVE yet? Earn for writing! Referral link for FREE account here
A place to get lost in. Looks like heaven <3
Yay! You got to surf! Love the yellow daisy flowers.