Yerevan Botanical Garden: A bit of a mess, but with potential

in TravelFeed17 days ago

There is a structure I had seen advertised on television in my first few months here in Armenia, it was a mostly glass structure that looked abandoned, overgrown with life. Something out of a science-fiction film that resembled a futuristic moon base, even. I had no idea it was a real place until recently, and from the lack of nature around Yerevan, I assumed it would be a place a bit more out and requiring some travel to get to. Though, still with a little commute, it turns out that this building was within the Yerevan Botanical Garden, a location that is probably the most nature you'll see remotely close to Yerevan's city centre. It's as if this part of the world despises trees, with such areas being more distant from the city and in certain regions of the nation. Funnily, reviews of this place are mostly negative, with some humours ones claiming that if you enjoy life, you'd be best avoiding this place due to the decay and neglect that could cause death. A bit dramatic, but not too wrong sometimes. 

As is the case for most places in this part of the world, it lost its care when the Soviet Union collapsed and the money soon dried up. Entry was about 500 Dram which equates to just over 50 cents. Though the woman at the entrance had the audacity to claim I needed to pay 5000 Dram (over $10) to take photographs in the garden; naturally, I just refused and said I wouldn't take any pictures. Anyway, walking on in, I immediately began to take pictures. I didn't understand the logic, and you'd think places like this would want people to take photographs and help advertise the beauty of it. Warnings at the entrance claimed some places would be closed off due to construction, though it appeared that this meant most of the environment would be closed off, including the moon base structure that for some reason is closed on Mondays. A bit disappointing, especially given the attempt to yoink 5000 Dram from me for the ability to take photographs of construction work.

The buildings in the area had a lot of decay to them. Smashed up windows, overgrown and seemingly unused. Soviet era, again. Though some were active museums in which certain studies were conducted. I found it quite interested how much it stood out, how within this space one could find fossilised leafs and the skulls and bones of animals sitting around the floor from millions of years ago. But then again, so few people were in the garden in the first place, no threats there. The works within the space were kind, friendly and generally went about their way. It was cool to see it still active in this regard, but a little depressing to see how much it has lost its beauty. Clearly in need of some more care. Both in the garden and buildings. My favourite area ended up being a woodland, nothing fancy about it. But home to squirrels and birds that lived there.

For example, check out this little fellow! This squirrel ran up the tree, looked down at us, and then slowly made its way down, giving me a perfect opportunity to capture it. I snapped a few fun shots of the animal with my 85mm lens which was perfect for this environment and situation. And also a ton of fun since I had never seen a red squirrel before, coming from England where they are grey. This was the most natural aspect of Armenia I had seen regarding wild animals, in my entire duration here so far. I don't exaggerate when I say the landscape around Yerevan often feels like a dry wasteland. The majority of animals you see being cranes or just stray dogs roaming in search of food. Some may argue that there's a large population of wild animals stumbling around in the form of the men, however. Resembling some knuckle-dragging mammals. 

I liked the woodland part the most for this nature, but also the fact that it shielded from the harsh sunlight at the peak of the day. Finally some shelter and a slight breeze. I wish I could've explored more of the building side of things, however all the construction was around these areas, the roads turned upside down and their entrances pretty much blocked. My curiosity definitely has me wanting to return perhaps once some of this construction has ended, to roam around the more Soviet buildings and see what they were made for, as well as now operating as with the sciences still going. In some ways it looks like an environment in which humanity had entirely left, and the spots were reclaimed by nature over time. Some sadness and beauty to it. I suspect it won't be long until some modernisation ruins it, with the destruction of some of the buildings that aren't really used anymore.

Some areas of the garden had interesting designs, but these felt few and far between with how much of the garden felt like you shouldn't walk through it, a bit too messy and dangerous; though not with the old structures, but more the construction and works that were left that you could easily stumble on. I wanted to walk through it more, but it felt like you had to stay within a very confied space for your own safety, as well as without understanding where exactly you could go. Not really any signs anywhere, no maps, and no little cafes or anything in which you could sit down at, spend more money, and enjoy the environment. This felt like a missed opportunity, where it seemed like it wanted you to arrive and leave quickly. Not trying to keep you around at all within this environment. A very odd space. 

But within this odd space was beauty. If you looked close enough. You could walk into some of the buildings which would be very humid, open glasshouses. Some led to abandoned buildings with overgrowth, some contained various pots and plants of different species that were clearly flourishing within this space. It was nice to see nature actually performing well here. To feel that warmth of the humidity instantly, but also that beautiful smell of the floral as it hit your nostrils. Walking around here was really fun, and it felt more like an old lady's personal project rather than conservation or studies of the sciences. I think I liked that more though, reminding me a little bit of home and the colour and nature that was found within the countryside of England. That fresh smell of the nature in spring. The colours of it all. 

As is the case with much of the places in and around Yerevan, there's a ton of potential in a space like this. But the care just isn't quite there. It needs a bit of a shift to be something that's more appealing and giving people a bigger reason to come and attend. And if money is the problem, why aren't they interested in providing more events and services to help tourism and allow people to spend? It felt like there wasn't really anything else to do but walk through and leave. And it came to no surprise that there were so few other people there at the garden, we saw less than ten people there during our walk through. But I can understand why maybe even the natives to Armenia might have no interest in coming here. Sure there is some history, but that's what Armenia thrives on. It just doesn't care to show it to you. 


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