Aaah! To get in the water again...I would love to get back to the ocean and surf again. I learned to surf when I was 12. Mind you, I wasn't very good at it, but I loved the quiet when sitting out at backline.
Time to Steemit more, then I could probably.
Thanks for posting this!
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You'll get out there again. One of my favorite things about surfing is sitting out there and having a Zen sort of moment where there is nothing happening except the now and the surf.
For sure... Just gotta get close to the sea. I live 500 kms away from it ... Soon. Very soon.