Everytime I paddle out I'm intensely aware of how bloody lucky - and priveleged - to live here. I shouldn't have to say it, but given world events, it feels kinda wierd posting about ordinary things, like a long weekend with family, my returned mobility so I'm able to pop up on a few waves, an amazing middle eastern rice and snapper dish that I made with no sense of irony that that part of the world is suffering at the moment. So here's the disclaimer - when I'm posting about my life, I'm also thinking of, and sending metta to, people who aren't in such benign circumstances.
My son doesn't surf anymore - he lives in Melbourne, and wouldn't move down here because there's less work opportunity, and he loves the energy of the city, and being part of the music industry, which largely involves recording and mixing. When he is down, and there's surf, he paddles out with me.
And rips. He has that natural stance that suits longboarders, and the cruiser attitude to match. As I was saying to @consciouscat, it's very much about muscle memory - once you can surf, you don't really forget. Your muscles might ache the next day, of course.
I love paddling out with him. There's Dad's spirit between us. He's riding Dad's old board, that Dad bought when he first got cancer. and loved, but barely got chance to ride. Poor Dad wouldn't give me that board until he was a week off dying. He had that much hope.
We're in that strange place between safety and fear at the moment. Yesterday I stood at the shore with one of my Dad's mates, a foiler, and we talked about the war in the Middle East, the fuckery of Israel, the nuclear threat, Trump, religion, fuel prices (he flies his own plane, surf checking for us most days) and sharks (of the salt water kind), whilst the waves drizzled out to nothing.
Overwhelmingly, though, this place is sanctuary, memory, respite, relief.
There's a sense of family in this place that makes it all the more poignant, especially that we get to live out our lives here and not be torn apart by war, by tragedy greater than ordinary deaths. I saw my older uncle, Dad's brother, on his bodyboard the other day. He's turning 80 this month and still is tied to the sea, though he can't stand up and rip like he used to. His younger brother is in hospital at the moment. He's okay - just a pacemaker perhaps. He's my favourite uncle and substitute Dad, so I worry of course. I text him 'don't bloody well die' and he texts back 'I can't - I'm booked to go surfing in the Maldives'.
In the corner of this photo, there's the little one coming up. I worry he won't connect to the sea like we do, being in Melbourne. It makes me sad, given my childhood down here was so darn idyllic. But then there's Nippers (a Surf Life Saving program for kids) which starts when he hits 7 years old, and holidays. I'm hoping 'surfing with Grandma and Grandpa' becomes a genuine thing he wants to do, and a fond memory of his childhood that has him seek out this coast when he can.
For now, it's a place of safety and sanctuary, and I'll never stop being grateful for this life.
Oh, and about sending metta. It's a little like thoughts and prayers, a loving kindness meditation that cultivates good well and unconditional love for all beings - even difficult people. To repeat "May you be safe, happy, healthy, and live with ease" is a way of fostering compassion and reducing fear, and often focuses on the area of the heart.
Which is about all we can do sometimes.
With Love,
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Beautiful post
There's too much shit going on in this world where we have no control over. The only right little people like us have is to vote out the 0.0000000001% of the monsters who create this shit, but sadly even that option still isn't available to many.
It's insane that voting is the only way to get rid of them. More insane that they have enough power to totally upturn the world like it's a game of Risk.
It's awesome to read how the waves keep people alive. For my grandpa, it was the Maledives up to old age, until he couldn't go anymore. He became an honorary citizen for his work there, and made a really nice movie about it. In German, but I think YT does subtitles these days.
The sea can do that to people. Keep them alive, with hope, and happy. I'm so glad that you got enough mobility back to enjoy the waves once again!
Oh wow that's amazing. I will watch it! My uncle is headed there surfing soon.
Oh.. only German subs...
From my point of view, we should always be grateful, even for the air we breathe. And among so many people who are going through hard times due to various circumstances, having a plate of food and enjoying what we like is, for me, a blessing.
Greetings @riverflows
I agree. Warm blessings to you X
x
It is about all we can do most times. Nothing much we can do about the madness in this world. But we cna bring a little joy to peoples lives through something. That is why I like reading the blogs of others. It is not just the same doom and gloom everywhere else. Just reading this post, I smiled as you talked about your uncle. How he said he couldn't die becuase of his appointment in the Maldives.
He's okay, by the way. He has been told to drink two litres of water a day which he's not happy about!
He sounds like the type of guy I would love to have a beer with.
He does tell a lot of bad jokes though 🤣 My Dad, you would have loved him. Everyone did.
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STOPWe should never take for granted, being alive, healthy, strong, and living in a part of the world where there is no war or conflicts. Many people in the world today are going through very difficult situations, but we are grateful for life. My thoughts are with you and your substitute Dad in the hospital. I truly hope he gets the care he needs and recovers soon. Wishing him strength and better health in his old age.
He's okay, just being monitored and told to drink lots of water which he isn't happy about!
Please always encourage him assure him that you love him, that he should try and follow the advice the doctor gave him on water, so that he can fully get himself back.
it is weird posting about ordinary things, but such is life. and your returned mobility is a great thing, i'm really glad to know you're back surfing and feeling better. why shouldn't that matter? you're a good person, bringing good energy into this world. why should that be overriden by bastards looking to burn the world down? why should their energy win?
i keep thinking i'd love to learn how to surf, but do it properly somewhere. rent a place by the ocean for a few weeks or months and just really dig into it. seems like a lot of freedom out there on the ocean. :)
Yes! There is. Part of the reason I love it. That sounds like a perfect idea. Try the Algarve or Galicia. That would be amazing. Do a couple of lessons with instructors first to speed up the process. Warning, it's addictive!
You're a bystander. It's my war. Not like I voted for it, or for the people who started it, or for the foreign policy that allows this to happen, but it is my country that is at war. It is my country pummeling people, bringing chaos to world order. Mind you, the world wasn't ordered to begin with, but oh have we made it worse. And yet, I have to take a vacation from war. It is too wearying. I think, even in the midst of war, people have birthday cake. Life goes on. That's about it. We can choose to give away the time we have worrying and feeling terrible, or we can hold onto life. No guilt associated. Whatever is going on around us, we are here. We live.
Enjoy your surf. Enjoy your family. Enjoy every day. I think your father did an amazing thing in buying a surfboard after he was diagnosed with cancer. That act was a declaration: I am here. I will live. I will not give up one moment until it is taken away from me.
Ah I feel so sorry for you guys too. I know you haven't chosen this war. And so many of you have changed your minds about Trump too. Yes, let's just let it do it's thing as we can't control it can we? Yes, we are here.
You know, my Dad was amazing. I'll never forget him kiteboarding after a really full on chemo treatment was over. I thought he was my hero before but when I saw that, I honestly was gobsmacked. He had about a year after this then another two years of hell.
But even then he still found ways to enjoy life. Even the week before he died he was like 'if I beat this thing, I'll go back to the Cook Islands' . NOt to say he didn't have really, really awful moments where he wanted to die and was in so much pain, but largely, he sucked the proverbial marrow out of every moment. Definitely taught me how to approach what's coming next.
Thanks for the reminder!
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Your post has touched my soul. I have mixed feelings as I write this comment because I don’t want to sound complaining… and yet my idea of life has changed. I understand it is entirely my responsibility to live what I live… although it has been hard, and still is, I am also grateful for this life, and for the small steps I am taking today, collecting moments of joy, a new and fresher outlook by focusing on myself, which is what I can control… For many in other corners of the world, what seems normal and routine to you is a luxury. Thank you for that beginning, for thinking of us. Thank you for that great sensitivity, and keep enjoying the simple things. That is wise, and I hope the little ones in your family receive those small lessons which, in the end, make a great difference in their adulthood.
New Year, but same old vision! Thank you for choosing to either use the #thoughtfuldailypost TAG, or post in our community! Keep on being thoughtful!