A Spicy Welcome

in #africa6 years ago

Driving to site in the all-terrain Land Cruiser was a bumpy two hours during which we drove through two streams and over one by way of a wood-plank bridge. It was quite engaging; tactically racing over potholes with fans of broad leaves arching over the track. Each time we passed through a village I asked “is this it!?” like an impatient kid driving to grandma's – “Are we there yet?” The rainforest vegetation cleared into a savanna with sweeping grasses surrounding massive, isolated cotton trees some 20 meters tall. This landscape did not reach far, and soon Plum (n. - Liberian word for Mango), Palm, and Orange trees took a stand. This was site.

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View west towards South America from a massive rock outcrop on the coast of my new home.

Jerry the driver veered off the dusty road and dove between two houses, masterfully avoiding both by what felt like inches. Children had already taken to chasing the car, and when we parked on the sandy front yard of my house a crowd radiated. “White man here!” noted several children while others looked on silently. Older members of my new community came, shaking my hand and lobbing first, middle, and last names to me. Most had Nyema somewhere in them; I remembered that. Many hands made light work and before I could meet the final Nyema all my supplies and belongings were inside my house. The mayoress showed me to a nearby area where the village elders were seated. We each exchanged pleasantries and my counterpart Cotee gave me a seat.

He briefed me on the order of the ceremony which then followed as such:

Item 1: The Kola Nut

Any one who enters the village of the Grebo tribe must be offered the bitter nut as indication of welcome. The golf-ball sized nut is split into many thin wedges and the stranger dips the nut in peppay dust and bites down. After the Clan Chief took his piece, it was my turn. Bitter indeed – but I kept a straight face. I knew this was the first of many. The water (n. - cane sugar liquor [when used in the context of Kola]) followed behind.

Item 2: Statement of Mission

I stood up and shared what brought me here and the mission I had. A blind man called Dibleh translated my words into the Grebo dialect. After each sentence I heard applause and thank you's. Perhaps it was the overwhelming kindness and smiles, but this impromptu speech was so splendid. No nerves muddled my thoughts or words – I said precisely what I meant and no less. It was then I felt most content; this is exactly where I am meant to be.

Item 3: Acceptance of Mission

Community members resounded that my stay was welcomed, and my mission a valuable one.

Item 4: Offering of the Dwelling

Floating on the high of the moment, I was brought back to my house for a formal offering. The community used its funds to construct the house and everyone was eager to see the final product. The house suited me well.

Item 5: Remarks on the Dwelling

I was asked to comment on how I received the abode, and whether or not I accepted the offering. Its color matched my shirt – a convenient talking point. Accepted I did.

Item 6: Comments from community members

Any welcomes that were not offered earlier were done so.

Item 7: Closing Prayer

In Liberian English and the tribal Grebo dialect, god was thanked for all things good. My town had several American missionary women help develop and promote Christianity in the area, and references to God are as plentiful as the coconuts here.

Item 17: Meal time

Item 17 always refers to the meal – the crux of any well-attended meeting. From a nearby house children carried out the staple Palm Butter soup (palm nuts reduced into a creamy orange soup with hot pepper dust and bouillon inside) atop rice with bony fish.

This warm and at times spicy reception was more than I anticipated and sauced me up to make town rounds. Cotee escorted me as I was Kola nutted from place to place, becoming familiar with the village sprawl as well as the bitterspicy tradition.

P.S. More posts coming soon. There's much to share with all of you and it is only scarce data that is blocking me!

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I have enjoyed reading your story a lot, @jhimmel. You have my upvote and resteem. You must be quite an attraction for kids. Some might have seen "the white man" for the first time in their lifes, right?

I am delighted whenever you comment, @zorank. Thanks again for the support.

You must be quite an attraction for kids. Some might have seen "the white man" for the first time in their lifes, right?

Yes, many have never seen a white man, especially up close and in person (and in their yard). Most children under 2 years old scream, kick, and cry any time I come too close. There's nothing quite like striking fear into the heart of a toddler.

Wow, that sounds like an adventure! How long are you gonna stay in Liberia? So you volunteer there as a member of te Peace Corps? Are you @dhimmel ´s brother? :)

It is quite the adventure! And quite the challenge. I'll be here for 27 months and perhaps more if I apply to extend my stay. I am an education Volunteer with Peace Corps Liberia.

And yes, the eSteemed @dhimmel and I share roughly 50% of our genetic code!

What 27 months? That´s over 2 years, wow! I have never been to Liberia and I think I don´t even know anyone who has. I think I will be a regular visitor to your blog to see how things are in this relatively unknown part of Africa :) Stay safe.

Good! A goal of mine is to shine light on this special place so please do return!

Congrats on reaching your home for the next two years! Sounds like a great village and cool that you get to be near the sea.

Keep the pictures coming, especially of the nearby well and any water wars that erupt. Also pictures of the free-range livestock.

Yes - you will have to visit. I found some wonderful hammocking spots recently that could compensate two.

Hammocking.jpg

The wars are hard to capture in still images - but I like a challenge. Find some more photos on my more recent post.

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Here's an image to chew over in the meantime.

Looks like a cool adventure. Glad you seem to be enjoying the time in Liberia. Any reservations so far about being over there?

There were a few reservations before coming but now that I am here I couldn't be happier with the opportunity Ive been granted.
That's not to say there aren't challenges. It can get lonely here and being a constant object of attention is tiring.

Great to here. The issue about attention is a real one. I guess you just have to try and find ways around it.

Beautiful photo!

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@jhimmel nice…Great Analysed We are really proud of you, That you have so much simplicity which can generate huge motivation power...
I am a big fan of yours!!!!Please give advice for betterment of each other.
@sbanerjee0017 (Shyamal Banerjee[Age:62] Kolkata,INDIA)✍