Climbed this one about a month ago now. I was sick at the time and went as a group of 3. Not feeling well, I figured one of my partners would lead the first pitch, a very blue collar dihedral, and the other partner would lead the 2nd pitch, run out slab.
When we got to the base nobody was volunteering for the first pitch. I admitted I was sick and not in the best mood to lead. At that time both of my partners admitted they too were sick!
For a short second we contemplated punting and coming back later, but we ultimately decided to give it a go. I packed up for the first pitch, with the agreement that it probably wouldn't go clean, and it didn't. Not even close!
If you read the comments of this climb on mountain project you'll see lots of people talking about how blue collar the first pitch is. Strenuous moves over and over, and my body just wasn't up to it. I think I hung on every piece, but I eventually made it up the dihedral and across the roof traverse to the belay.
The second pitch turned out to be pretty mellow and then we soon rapped back down to call it a day.
At first I was kind of bummed to climb this in poor style, hanging on every piece, but at the same time I'm really glad we didn't give in. We gave the climb what we had, and in hindsight we probably enjoyed the struggle.
I think that is what's important in my climbing. Ill never climb 5.12 on gear, but as long as I'm trying my best and having fun I think that's all that matters.
Full disclosure We have every intention to go back and send it clean soon!