Dude! That wave that you're surfing, it's no joke! You're a damn good surfer!!! Can we give that man a round of applause?
👏
I don't like those rocks, I know it doesn't matter when you fall in the water because the water will hurt you before the rocks, but it can't be good, that many sharp rocks just waiting to cut you.
And then you got the sharks, waiting for you to cut yourselves on the rocks, it just feels that everything is just waiting for those rocks to finish the job.
You got the good life though, lonely at times I am sure, but the good life!
Hey thanks man! That wave is just fantastic and yes need to be careful of the rocks! My buddy broke his leash and his board got washed in and smashed on the shallow rocks there. He had a long swim back to the beach.