My Bru (South African version of bro/bra), I still say you are living the dream! Nice long rides at just overhead!
Your buddy looks bigger than you but you can't let him drop in unpunished! Learn Jiu Jitsu! Haha (kidding - friends are the only people allowed to drop in on each other! Just make sure you get him back and stick a camera in his mouth!).
Who was kind enough to take the photos? You owe them a beer too... It's usually quite a boring job waiting for the surfers to actually get a wave between sets!
Choosing a twin fin for powerful surf is an interesting choice, but I notice modern board design is encouraging people to try different things! You must have felt like you were a bullet! Mid-lengths and twin pins seem to be he flavour of the year! And soft-tops - I actually got one recently and I am loving it!
Hey Bru! My drop in buddy paid me in beer...:) About the photos the local kids here sell photos to anyone surfing. To be honest I normally dont bother but this year it's very clear that people are desperate for money after 2 years of no tourism so i don't mind to buy a few pics each day.
I brought with me a twin fin, a 6'2 single fin and a 6'4 with thruster set up - my go to board when it gets a little bigger. I just love surfing on the twinny though!
Tomorrow we move to the spot up the coast - it holds 12 foot easily on a big swell so lets see how next week pans out. Forecast is 6 - 8 foot all week.