There's a break I surf a lot - it's as familiar to me as the back of my hand. The surf wraps around the point where there's a small reef and then slides down the protected bay all the way to the sand - some two minutes of being on a wave if you pick the right one and time it right. We see dolphins, stingrays, fish, birds. It's one of my favourite places on earth. Ghost Dad comes surfing with me a lot or I see him walking with the camera on the shore.
Last Friday I was out with about twenty other people. Fridays can be busy. There's a group of women, including two surf SUP'ers (stand up paddle boarders) like me. One was annoying me as she kept dropping in on me, which is fine if they're down the line but when you catch up to them and call them off and they don't flick off hte back of the wave it's irritating. I don't know if she doesn't know the rules or thinks I like 'party waves' - which are only fun when they're with your mates and you've all agreed that's okay. I don't like them. They're dangerous. And when it's my right of way and it's me that has to flick off, well, I can really get annoyed.
So after that happened twice I'm standing on my SUP a little away from everyone. I'm out there to enjoy myself, not get annoyed, so best keep my distance and smile. I was looking out toward the point and I see what I initially thought was a diver in a wetsuit, but had barely chance to register before the annoying chic starts screaming, at the top of her lungs: 'Shark! Shark! Shark!'.
Okay, the power of suggestion is strong, so I start moving a little away from the point, waiting for a wave to take me in. I don't think my heart rate skips at all, which I find interesting later. I am not at all worried, although I wish she'd stop yelling. In my mind, you make less noise, don't panic, and it's quicker to get a wave in to shore than flounder around like you're the barrel and the engine of a washing machine. Plus, I've watched 'The Shark Whisperer' on Netflix - highly recommended, please watch it - and it's clear I've embraced the idea that I'm actually quite intimidating for a shark - I'm tall on the board, and cast a big shadow. He's never coming near me.
Of course, you have to be aware - and it's not as if I don't know how dangerous sharks can be. But I'm not scared at all of this situation. I'm also actually thrilled that there is a shark at all - any ocean life is important. Without these apex predators, the ocean is fucked. Sometimes it's just the way we think about things. I wasn't screaming - I was happy.
Annoying chick wasn't. She comes past me, looks me right in the eye, and says in this really annoying voice: 'I SAID THERE'S A SHARK'.
I return with 'I heard you!', because I think they must have heard her in South Africa as well. People are paddling for shore. I have no interest in that. Seems like mass panic over nothing for me. Besides, I know it's incredibly rare for really dangerous sharks to come into these waters, and there's only ever been one or two attacks in decades, and no fatalities. Some parts of Australia are safer than others.
I also know that once her and her mates go in, I'm going to have a better time, and a lot more waves. In the end, it's just me and five other older guys who are locals. One is an ex cray fisherman and he quizzes me on what I saw. To be fair, I said, I'm not even sure it was a shark. Maybe it was, maybe it wasn't. Either way, we were all stoked that we had at least another hour or endless waves to ourselves, a rare event - rarer than a shark attack. I knew it was only maybe 5 or 6 feet - remember I thought I saw a diver - whilst she was saying it was over 10. Jesus, the mind can really do a number on you.
The thing is, my mind had been doing a number on me all week. I've been so stressed and anxious about selling the house that I've been feeling ill. It's this worry about money and the uncertain future that has made me exist in this constant panic mode.
Out there in the water, I realised I'm more scared of debt than I am of sharks.
This really made me laugh. What the actual fuck am I worried about? I could disappear under the water at any moment and I'm scared of a mortgage I'll eventually pay off when the house sells? Fuck that. Out there, sliding on the beautiful clear water, I vowed to think of sharks every time I thought of money.
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Meanwhile, she's in the carpark telling everyone to not go in the water, because there's a shark. In the water, we joke about swimming around with a shark fin to clear the crowds.
The local fisherman, when he came in from his daily fish, laughed. In his thick Greek accent, he told us all it was a seal.
Moral of the story? Don't panic. Your fears are very likely completely unfounded.
With Love,
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Such a thrilling story. I love how you turned fear into reflection powerful and calm mindset. 🦈💙
I am so glad it happened. It sure put things into perspective for me!
You're a great story teller.
I think, unfortunately, once someone is panicking they can't easily stop, but you clearly showed that having information, knowledge and experience about a subject prevents you from panicking in the first place. So I guess if people are going to do something, it really does help to try and learn as much about it as possible.
I was actually surprised at how much I knew without realizing I knew, and it all came together when I needed it. I'm pretty calm in situations where other people panic... Everything slows down and my rational brain works well to help out. Yet in other situations, like ordinary life, I'm full of anxiety!
Ahhh thanks. Can I frame that for the poolroom? Chuffed.
What a reflection and yes fear can do thing to us and make us acting stupid 😄 and oh, I am sorry but I laughed at the end when you realized, you fear debt more than sharks!
No I laughed too, don't be sorry. It was a massive realization for me and broke a cycle of anxiety as I thought well I could die at any minute from a shark or a car or whatever!
I'm going to go to the beach and shout SEAL SEAL SEAL until people look at my like I'm insane.
I was going to say you're much more likely to cuddle the shark, but I think I seal would enjoy that more.
I was so prepared to smash that shark with my paddle....
oh, that is funny! 😂 It also makes me think of a cool motivational meme I saw sometime back, which perfectly mirrors the story in your post! 😁
ah that's me in general. I pretend to be a confident shark but I'm a goldfish at heart.
Animals bring gifts. Always. My kittens brought me some understanding too
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