I love watching people surf. I envy you guys. Careful, don't tell me "you just have to get off your butt and go". In fact, I have a phobia of that:
Ok it doesn't exist (that's from Jurassic World). But I can't get the image out of my head.
So I find it admirable when people don't have this fear. What's more, at 53, I think you're in great shape. Okay, it's not going to get any better, but it's already legendary!
How did you learn to surf?
When I was a kid, we were always by the ocean as Dad surfed. So he would push me onto little waves and scream PADDLE PADDLE PADDLE. Then by 14 or so it was a teenage escape with my bestie. At 22 I had pretty much stopped due to travelling, life etc, moving away. Had a kid. Moved to the UK. Came back at 33 and got back in the water on a longboard. Someone starting shaping SUPS on the coast and we had a go and I was hooked. I should write a post about it
Wow yes I would love to read the article about it! I love feedback, it's really what inspires me.