The first time I went there was 20 years ago and it was free even then. I have gone several times, even though it is touristy, it is the best example of all those windmills that I could find. It is especially fun with people that have never been there before.
There is nothing but the stores that cost money, so everyone must buy lots of cheese and trinkets there, it seems to do well as a tourist spot. I went to the windmill that did paint. I thought it was blue then, but, God knows what color it is now.
I really liked it there, and I was a pretty good tourist. I have to admit, I went on a weekday, so there was no big lines. Surprisingly, they didn't charge to go up to the second level on the windmills.
Great post! I love Holland.
Going on a week day was smart. I imagine that it wouldn't be nearly as busy as a Saturday, which is when we went. We went during tulip season as well so I think that added to the tourists in the country. Another awesome spot to see historic windmills is kinderjikt. It's in Southern Netherlands and has 19 historic windmills along a canal. It's outside a small town and there are virtually no tourists there other than a few people here and there biking along the bike path. It's a good spot to see windmills but there are no shops or anything else.