Hello All! To continue on our Burgundy serie, we visit today what is probably the most emblematic building of Burgundian architecture: the famous Hospices de Beaune.
The Hospices
Its story is quite interesting, as it's still perpetuated today. At the end of the Hundred Years' War, around the mid 15th century, the Chancellor of Burgundy Nicolas Rolin and his wife Guigone de Salins decided to build an hospital for the poor. Having received the approval of the Pope, the Hospices were built and officially received the fist sick people in 1452. The Hospices received various donations and inheritances from wealthy Burgundian nobles in order to operate. It included money of course, but also lands, farms, and most notably: vineyards.
Today, the Hospices own around 60 hectares (around 150 acres) of vineyard, and its production is sold every year at auction. The funds are still used to operate several hospitals and medical centers (for elderly, for cancer research), employing 700 persons. How does that feel? Isn't it great? Five centuries after its creation, the Hospice of Beaune still operate as a non-profit organization, still fulfilling its initial mission. In my book, it's a pretty good example of successful charity!
The Hospices occupy a central place in Beaune, here discovering its facade behind the covered market, where the auctions take place.
The entrance, marked 1443, is already engaging, with its gothic flamboyant style. The architect in charge of the building was Flemish, explaining again the similarities on decorations. If you've read my precedent post, you already know Burgundy owned Flanders at the time.
Yet, the external face of the building is with no common measure once you discover the finesse and opulence of the courtyard. Just look at that:
Glazed roofs. Half-timbered balcony supported by stone pillars. Finials at every window. Is it too much already?
Funnily enough, the roof of the main building (visible from the outside) is covered with slate. It was chosen for being more prestigious at the time, as it wasn't used much in the region. Yet I prefer the local less prestigious option!
Let's take a closer look at the details.
The roofs are covered with glazed tiles of four colors, arranged in interlaced designs. Did you appreciate the finesse of the gothic ironwork on finials? Have you noticed the little wooden personages on top of dormers?
The Room of the Poor is the main room of the Hospices. It measures 50 meters long. The roof is in shape of reversed boat, which was a techique developing in France at the time. Beds for the patients are covering its length, except for the open chapel at the end of the room. Yeah, even in bed, no reason to miss the mass!
The beams are all painted and sculpted with ingulants. Really not sure what the English term is for it, so I took the heraldic term, as it's the same in French. It comes from the word ghoul, so a monster's head swallowing the beams.
Following the rows of beds, and we arrive at the chapel.
Did you know I liked tapestries? ("oh no, he's back at it!" you're thinking, I know)
But these ones are really nice! You can see on the red one the letters N and G, interlaced, for Nicolas and Guigone. You can also read "Seulle", Nicolas Rolin's motto, old French form for "only one". How romantic!
The blue one shows an Agnus Dei with keys and towers, again symbols of Nicolas and Guigone.
But the real masterpiece of the Chapel is the altarpiece: a fifteen-panels retable representing The Last Judgment by a Flemish Primitive painter, Rogier van der Weyden. It was closed during weekdays, showing, if I may, its boring face. It was opened only on Sundays to show its magnificient interior. Heaven on one side, hell at the other, Saint Mickael inexorably weigting the souls of everyone.
I've always been fascinated, since being a child, with medieval depictions of hell or calamities. Specially as a child, I wasn't sure if it was real or not... For sure it was frightening, and for sure I thought it was a difficult time living in the Middle-Age!
The Room Saint Hugues was created in 1645 and shows paintings by Isaac Moillon, representing the miracles of Saint Hugues and of Jesus. It served as bedroom for wealthy patients.
Nice paintings, right? Raise the head.
Fully painted on three walls and the ceiling. It is really magnificent to be in the middle of it. It was one of this moment when you feel so small so small, but while being indoor. Not that common for me, I'm often more impress by natural structures.
The kitchen is shown as per its arrangement at the beginning of the 19th century.
The pharmacy is seperated in two rooms: one for preparation, and one for storage of remedies. Among the remedies, you could find "louse powder" or "elixir of propriety" (yeah, no idea). Louse powder every day keeps the doctor away!
The city
The city of Beaune is pleasing and have some nice old buildings, but obviously none can compete after seeing the Hospices.
The belfry, also called the Clock Tower, was built in the 14th century.
Another hospice, of the Saint Trinity was built in the 17th century.
And some nice other typical houses.
But apart the Hospices, the Basilica really stand out.
Basilica of Notre Dame
The basilica is one of the latest romanesque church built in Burgundy, at the end of the 12th century.
Yeah! Gargoyles!
There was a fire in the 13th century, so they replaced the romanesque windows with gothic ones, more in the style of the day. I'm all for gothic, so fine by me.
Of all the side chapels along the basilica, my favorite one shows a mural painting of the 15th century representing the resurrection of Saint Lazare. But I'm partial to painted walls. So much better than the sad color of stone or plaster.
The Baptism and Crucifixion
There's also a nice outside part with a little cloister. Or what remains of it, actually, it's not closed.
And so, that's it for today!
Beaune is located at the center of the wine-producing part of Burgundy. So you may expect a visit of a cellar or vineyard, but you won't find it here. Let me explain.
First, I'm partial with Burgundy wines. Of course I went to enjoy the local production, and the first thing we bought there was local wine. But it just confirmed my prejudice, that Burgundy wines are just overpriced. No matter the wine, or price range, you want to go for, the ratio price/quality is never favorable. You will always have better options, at a better price for a better quality.
Want red wine? Go for Bordeaux. Saint Emilion is never wrong, or a big heavy tasty Graves.
Want white wine? Go for Alsace. A dry Riesling or a fruity Gewurztraminer. A Pinot Gris is a nice in between.
Want rosé wine? Don't drink rosé! What the ?
I'm not saying Burgundy wines are not good, they have excellent wines, but so overpriced they always left me disappointed. Up to the point that, while in Burgundy, we ended up drinking Bordeaux wines.
So that's really it for today! No cellars for you, dear Sirs!
Wow - what an amazing place - and the hospital is just beautiful - the roof is stunning. Another great share !!
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Thank you! Glad you like it. Indeed a highlight of my vacations! !PIZZA
beautiful photos. it looks definitely worth a visit!
Yeah, it's really a nice region to visit. Not exceptionnal on landscape, but really great history and old buildings!
I've only really been around Alsace, but there is so much to explore in France!
Oh, Alsace may be my favorite! I spent every summer there as a kid
oh you are lucky. i was so surprised by the beautiful countryside there.
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Thank you for this nice presentation!
You're welcome! It was a nice visit, I'm happy to share!
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What a beautiful little town. It could be the setting for a fairytail. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! That roof is indeed extraordinary!