The stark and rugged beauty of Africa’s deserted southern coastline

in Pinmapple2 years ago

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Welcome to another edition of “The Shape of The Cape” with your tour guide Julescape. On today’s stretch of coastline here on the south Cape coast of Africa, you can really get the impression of being in the middle of nowhere, which is somewhere far from the madding crowd. There are no indicators anywhere around to suggest where we might be or which direction to take. The setting consists purely of rock and ocean as far as the eye can see.

A beautiful setting for the romantic wanderer or nomadic forager
A beautiful setting for the romantic wanderer or nomadic forager

Since I know where we are and have a fixed direction, it’s easy for me to continue onward. Nevertheless, the terrain seems wild and desolate. Fortunately the sea is calm today, and with the tide somewhat lower, I was able to investigate the interesting little shallow rock pools that formed among the chunks of giant boulders.

Nothing but hard rock for shelter, some with apparent alphabet letters printed by nature if you look closely
Nothing but hard rock for shelter, some with apparent alphabet letters printed by nature if you look closely

The combination of thick low hanging cloud and equally steel grey vast Indian ocean really conjured up a sense of the true remoteness and emptiness of this particular stretch of coastline. It’s interesting how a setting can simultaneously look so full and yet so empty. Perhaps my solitary explorations are causing my mind to lose touch with the normal everyday existence of humanity.

By hiking alone for days on end through this austere beauty of the African southern coastline, I seem to have stumbled across a timeless terrain that could be anywhere on the planet, or even on another planet altogether. My mind must be playing tricks on me. Fortunately in places I can still look up and see the dark olive green vegetation that is predominant throughout the southern African coastline and remember which continent I’m on.

Curious symmetric patterns on the rocks, this one shaped like an egg
Curious symmetric patterns on the rocks, this one shaped like an egg

But when I focus on my close-up immediate terrain, I only see a combination of rough and smooth rock formations, rocks and boulders big and small and all sizes in between. Fortunately the sea has weathered and rounded or softened the edges of most of the rocky landscape all about me. Still, it looks somewhat harsh and hard.

For a start there is no dirt, soil or sea sand anywhere in sight. Imagine a coastline or shore with no sand at all, only rock or stones. There is nowhere where one could lay down a blanket or sleeping bag to rest or sleep overnight. It’s all steep slopes or bumpy rocks. If I wanted to camp here in a cave or alcove overnight, I would have to make some sort of serious attempt to arrange a level and soft floor on which to lie.

A dark and brooding seascape setting.
A dark and brooding seascape setting.

Other than that, a wandering nomad could perhaps forage for food by collecting some small shell creatures or snails that cling to the rocks in the little pools dotted all over. Hundreds of years ago the wondering indigenous tribal people called the Khoi/San Bushmen would have roamed these shores freely, perhaps finding fresh water at a stream or collecting edible shells and snail-like sea creatures that are so prolific here.

With the sky so overcast, the entire scene has become muted and subdued. The colors are a variety of grey, of which there are countless hues. Even the rock is a dull matt brown or grey in places and glossy grey where the sea has splashed them. This muted backdrop makes any random dash of color quite unique and out of the ordinary. Curiously the general rock formations sometimes present a patch of color where some mineral content tinges the rock red.

Splashes of color amid the otherwise muted setting, with shell creatures for those who might be hungry enough to require sustenance.
Splashes of color amid the otherwise muted setting, with shell creatures for those who might be hungry enough to require sustenance. 

Other than that, the smoothed and rounded rocks along the actual shoreline that makes up a stretch of occasional beach seem to have been bleached white by the continual wave action washing over them with time. You could say that the place has a kind of austere beauty about it, like a desert perhaps.

A beach of bleached white rocks and stones, with not a single grain of sand in sight.
A beach of bleached white rocks and stones, with not a single grain of sand in sight.

The vast ocean stretches into the distance for miles as far as the eye can see, and not a drop of it is drinkable. The rock is hard and bare, though the little sea shells act like sources of food, so the setting is not totally barren. One could indeed survive here for a time. You would just need to have some sort of bedding to cover the rocky floor. Otherwise sleep would be really difficult, despite the occasional cave or overhanging shelter.

A potential cave shelter beneath the overhanging cliff, though some sort of bedding will be crucial.
A potential cave shelter beneath the overhanging cliff, though some sort of bedding will be crucial. 

Despite the apparent desolate feel to the place and the somewhat stark and uncomfortable setting, I have grown very fond of this stretch of Africa coastline, called the Garden Route. As with most shorelines here, it looks really pure and clean, untainted by any form of human intervention. There is barely any sign of litter or pollution in this bay, although occasionally I have encountered some plastic items that wash up on to the shore in other little bays.

A calm sea with pools revealed at low tide
A calm sea with pools revealed at low tide

Here the setting is generally smoothed and rounded by the sea erosion on the rock, and it’s clean and refreshing. Thus despite the muted colors and hard austere surface of today’s stretch of the southern African coastline, I can’t help but remain impressed by the overall scene. Surrounding myself with this landscape actually feels like it purifies my mind.

Hard to access terrain unless you are willing to carve your own trail
Hard to access terrain unless you are willing to carve your own trail

The absence of human signs and the purity of the natural environment creates a purifying effect overall for the observer. And in today’s world that alone is refreshing and inspiring, like a zen garden that stretches for miles in all directions. So if you’re looking for a place to calm the mind and reconnect with the peace and tranquility of nature, then you will be inspired by the austere beauty of this stretch of the southern African shoreline, called Plettenberg Bay, in the Garden Route, South Africa.

(photos my own)


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Awesome Julian.

Thanks Steve, I appreciate your positive feedback.

Immaculately captured again 😁

Perhaps missing the area has made you express it even better!

Loving your pics. I would have considered stealing a couple of those stones and keeping them in my garden... if I had a garden and less of a conscience.

Really beautiful, J.

Well spotted!

Hey there Nicky, yes the posts all come out of my fertile brain based on my photos of the hike I take. Some days are inspiring and others are incredibly inspiring lol.

😆

Some days are inspiring and others are incredibly inspiring

 

I adore your approach (to) and perspective on life!

You are inspiring and some days incredibly inspiring, my friend 😊

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The absence of human signs and the purity of the natural environment creates a purifying effect overall for the observer. And in today’s world that alone is refreshing and inspiring, like a zen garden that stretches for miles in all directions.

Gorgeous description of our wild, beautiful shore. Fabulous pictures, too. I wish I was sitting there with you 🤗❤️💕❤️🤗🙃🙃

Hey there thank you so much, you are very kind. Perhaps you can find a similar space in nature near you.

Congratulations @julianhorack! You received the biggest smile and some love from TravelFeed! Keep up the amazing blog. 😍 Your post was also chosen as top pick of the day and is now featured on the TravelFeed.io front page.

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Sincere thanks @smeralda by fellow digital nomad lol.

What beautiful photos you have shared in this post

Thank you for your positive response, much appreciated.

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