Part 2/9:
Jurogan recalls a time when he was fully immersed in big wave surfing, training intensely to handle the brutal nature of the ocean’s giants. He describes how he prepared physically — working out six days a week and working with breath coaches to enhance his lung capacity and breath-holding techniques. When paddling into a wave, his goal was to oxygenate his lungs to maximize his chances of survival during a wipeout, especially when expecting a big one to collapse on him.
He vividly remembers the process: taking a giant, deep breath, filling every corner of his lungs, and then holding it optimally before being engulfed by the wave's force. This prep was crucial, as they knew that in the chaos underwater, having maximum air could be a lifesaver.