Part 3/9:
Jurogan recounts an intense wipeout off the coast of Northern California at Maverick’s, one of the most notorious big wave locations. Filmed by a boat operator, he describes being tombstoned — a dangerous situation where only the top half of his surfboard was visible as he was dragged underwater. He remained submerged for an astonishing 1 minute and 8 seconds, a testament to the importance of breath control and mental fortitude.
His training, including static breath holds, played a pivotal role in surviving such situations. He emphasizes that by practicing breath-holding in calm conditions, he could better manage the chaos underwater — understanding that the length he could hold his breath in controlled environments could be applied under pressure.