Crossing borders has never been that wild or intense, before.
Living in central Europe, I have almost forgotten, what crossing a border feels like. If you want to go from France to Italy, no one will stop you, no border control. All you get is a sign on the side of the road informing you about the change of country you are about to undergo. Especially when you are on a bike, nobody cares about you, free as a bird you go wherever you want.
This is about to change.
Already entering Serbia was different. We had to pass a checkpoint, show our passports.
Now we are leaving Serbia, sadly, because we learned to highly appreciate this country for all its full-on experiences, the bad and the great.
I have noticed, that since Croatia, I am getting very nervous before every entry into a new country. What will wait for me?
I fear the worst and hope for the best.
Serbia’s welcoming people have set my expectations for Bulgaria very high.
Let’s do it!
After a splendid night of sleep, next to a beautiful waterfall we start our day by cycling up and down early on a Sunday morning. The roads are calm, we are optimistic. Today we want to reach Bulgaria, that is only around 60km away.
Quickly I wonder where I will sleep tonight, as I do almost every day. Maybe Bulgaria will have some surprises ready for our arrival?
By the time I should know that there is no day without missions, but my goldfish brain seems to efficiently forget about that.
We have coffee after 35km in Pirot. The heat rises, but we want to reach the next town before 12. Cycling on a straight road with traffic and headwind slows us down.
The sun is burning way to hot, so we have a break at the side of the road, not knowing we are occupying someone’s driveway.
When a family shows up with their car, they invite us to fill up our water bottles. Which then transfers into coffee and cake and stretches to having lunch together.
Since the start of this journey, I have wished for some grandmother-cooked food. And now I got it to its finest. Food grown in their own garden, prepared by the grandmother, that keeps on filling up my plate and tells me to eat more until I am so full, I can’t move any more.
Eventually we must move, back on the bikes, towards Bulgaria.
We must cross the border on the Highway, by bike, interesting! Luckily there isn’t much traffic.
While we wait in line, the sun goes down. Where will we sleep tonight?
After the border we must cycle up a steep hill, the only road if you don’t want to drive on the highway. Barking dogs and fences welcome us in the first village, it is dark, and we have still nowhere to sleep.
A bit desperate I ring on a door of a stranger, ask him if we could camp in his garden. But he just checks if his gate is well looked and tells us to go to Sofia, which is "only" around 60km and a few hills away.
Okay we will manage on our own.
We want to reach the top of the hill and find a spot behind some bushes in the fields.
Indeed, we reach the top in complete darkness, drenched in sweat. The place looks nice, I would like to sleep here, until…
…we hear a sound in the bushes. Thinking I might see a deer or a wild bore I shine my torchlight towards the spot. But instead, I get to see two shady dudes hiding in the Bush, looking at the light.
Shocked, frightened, we pedal faster. What is going on here? What are they doing there? Why are they hiding? How many more of those are hiding in those bushes? Are they hunting?
We follow a track in the dark, we want to get out, but where to?
Crossing a field, a car is sending light messages, telling us: "We are here!", the silhouette of two people standing next to it. This message is clearly not for us. Was it meant for the two guys in the bushes? Or is there more going on in those fields?
I don’t want to end up in someone else’s shady business on a Sunday night! Because there is no way those people are just going on a walk in the fields to catch some fresh air. And surely the last thing they want to see is two random cyclists that got lost at the wrong time in the wrong place.
Just out of here!
We take the wrong turn and get lost in the fields, fearing to see more people behind the next bush. Where are we?
As we find our way back to the road, streetlamps and houses, dogs barking in every corner. Our sticks ready in case they will chase us, so far so good, they all seem to be behind fences. Thats when I realize, that I have a flat tire. We are exhausted. Everything looks dark and unwelcoming.
A bus-stop. We sit down. I don’t know if I will be able to sleep here. But it is the best we could get right now.
As I lay down my imagination is running wild, but the exhaustement wins and I get a few hours of bad sleep. Never again, I promise to myself!
We survive the night, fix my bike, cycle on through beautiful hills. A train passes and the chauffeur greats us with a wave and the horn...
...now we only need to find our way into the huge city of Sofia. Exhausted but alive.
What a journey!
Thank you all for passing by, I much appreciate all your comments and support!
All photos and words are my own taken and written by me.
A great roller-coaster read! So good to come across that family who you ended up having lunch with - makes me want to be generous to some weary travelers. I’ll just have to hope some turn up at our gateway.
That was indeed one of the best encounters we had! (followed by the worst after...) As you said a roller-coaster:)
Oh that is lovely to hear, well let's hope then some travellers will show up at your doorstep!!:)
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i'm guessing you're in Kyustendil region, not far from my home, not that i'm there at mo. or you could have come to visit.
Wishing you well on your journey.
Oh that would have been a great pleasure!! Actually we crossed a bit more north and went eastwards then (but once the plan was to pass nearby you) ...maybe next time:)
Thank you!!