The sea is a dangerous place that needs to be respected and we learn from our mistakes. Those waves we used to call dupers because the bottom basically falls out and you fall straight through into a washing machine experience. Surfing is not easy and you saw the worst of it starting out lol.
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the washing machine is a great way to describe it. Tons of people get face-planted into the sand or even worse, a reef at some of these locations. The ocean is a powerful force to be respected for sure.