The 1903 Trace at Simpang Jam, Aceh

in Photography Lovers13 days ago (edited)

This small structure was erected in the same year the Atjeh Tram began running through Bandar Aceh Darussalam—the city that the Dutch would later rename Kutaraja. The tiny block of old concrete, once a source of bureaucratic headaches for the colonial administration, now sits quietly in the heart of the city.

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The blue-painted numbers “1903” stand out sharply against the white wooden panels of an octagonal building in downtown Banda Aceh. The digits catch the eye—striking against the weathered paint—as if marking a moment in time frozen on its surface. Two cross-shaped vents, typical of 19th-century European architecture, flank the number. Above them, a rusting zinc pyramid roof continues to age with the passing years.

Beneath the date, two three-pane glass windows stand side by side, framed by neatly arranged wooden vents. On another side of the structure, two wooden beams—each roughly five-by-five inches—form what at first glance looks like an X. But a longer look reveals something closer to overlapping A’s: perhaps no more than structural reinforcement, or perhaps a symbol with meaning long forgotten.

Far below the 1903 marker, a small arched doorway provides the lone entrance to the lower level. The rectangular stone walls supporting it remain solid, though their color and texture have softened with age. From the outside, the building seems simple, almost modest—but inside it holds fragments of Aceh’s communication history.

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A Colonial Communication Hub

This old structure stands in the Simpang Jam area of Banda Aceh, Aceh, a region on the island of Sumatra. To its east lies Taman Ghairah—today known as Taman Putroe Phang—while to the west stands a fuel station. Just across the road, the Gunongan complex rises with its tale of Sultan Iskandar Muda’s devotion, and nearby rests the Dutch Kherkhoff cemetery, where colonial soldiers were laid to rest.

In the early 20th century, this octagonal building served as the Kutaraja Telephone Office, built by the Dutch in 1903. Its role was crucial: it functioned as the communication center linking military posts and colonial government offices throughout Aceh, a region still settling after a prolonged and brutal conflict.

Historical records note that the telephone office was part of the Dutch East Indies’ broader effort to modernize communication infrastructure. Through its copper-wire network, human voices could travel distances once bridged only by couriers or telegraph lines. To the Dutch, it was more than technological progress—it was an instrument of surveillance and control over a territory newly subdued.

Yet even this modern marvel brought its frustrations. Waves of Acehnese resistance sent reports flooding into the office, driving colonial officials to exasperation.

As noted by Teuku Kamal Arif in Banda Aceh Heritage:

"The Dutch governor often unplugged the telephone wires out of sheer frustration over the constant reports of Acehnese attacks."

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From the Roar of War to the Quiet of a City

Over time, the building’s purpose shifted. After Indonesian independence, the Kutaraja Telephone Office was used by PT Pos dan Telekomunikasi (now PT Telkom). But as the demand for space grew and communication technology evolved, the office was abandoned.

The tiny building later housed the local PSSI (Indonesian Football Association) chapter. It was even used briefly by a local daily newspaper.

Today, it stands silent amid the perpetual whirl of traffic at Simpang Jam. Parts of its walls have begun to crack, its window frames have faded, and grass sprouts from between the stones at its foundation. Yet its core structure remains, a quiet witness to the long evolution of a city once known as Kutaraja.

For many residents, the structure is simply “the old telephone office.” But for historians and preservationists, it is a vital artifact—one of the earliest markers of modern communication technology in Aceh, predating its arrival in many other parts of the archipelago. This significance is why the Balai Pelestarian Cagar Budaya, now the Balai Pelestarian Kebudayaan Wilayah I Aceh, has designated it a cultural heritage site.

Preserving Collective Memory

More than a remnant of the colonial era, the building holds lessons about how a city grows and adapts to time. It was once a symbol of progress, later forgotten, and now regarded through a different lens—a lens of remembrance rather than rejection.

Behind the fading numerals of 1903 lies a reminder of the importance of memory. Cities are not built only of stone and timber, but of stories—and those stories endure only as long as we choose to remember them.***