That's part of why I disliked surfing, it was always so crowded that it was hard to even get a decent wave. But it could be summer and much worse. I guess it all a matter of perspective. At least you're healthy enough to be able to go out and enjoy surfing! I'm glad you had a chance to get out there and enjoy some time on the water, I don't get out on the ocean here in California much, it's just too chilly. I prefer warmer, tropical waters!
Oh it definitely was better back in the day 😂 without a shred of a doubt. We were lucky to experience uncrowded breaks. I'd love to see California but yeah I can't fathom the crowds. That's the thing - we aren't as crowded as some places in the world!
Ooh yeah, jeez, I could do with a tropical dip about now!!! Without crocodiles 🐊 or stingers 🪼 🪼 though! Still, cold water wakes you up and energizes you.