I dream of this view often...
Surfing occupies many of my dreams, and ninety-nine times out of one hundred, my surf sessions begin with paddling out.
Paddling Out; Original Art by @creatr
This is what I see when paddling out on a perfect day.
On a small day, the paddle-out is pretty easy.
The sun is shining, life is good, and getting out is no problem at all. Of course, when you get out there, it's a long time between sets. Lots of waiting, and the rides are few, small, and far between. But getting out is no struggle!
When the surf is up,
When it's breaking big, paddling out can be a real challenge.
The breaking waves set up strong currents, constantly pushing you back toward shore. Grab your board and duck! One wave after another pummels you. If you don't time your moves just right, you wind up going through the spin-cycle and come up gasping for breath. Are you going to make it outside at all? On a big day, though, if you do manage to get outside, the rewards can be tremendous!
Like a friend of mine says, surfing has a built-in safety factor;
If you can't paddle out, you probably shouldn't be out anyway.
God has promised not to allow us to be tempted beyond what we are able to bear.
Life is often like that. When things are going easily, not much challenge, no pain, there is also not much opportunity to grow. When the rough days come, however, I often also have the opportunity to trust God more, to grow in my faith and confidence in Him. The rewards of struggling through a tough day are often worth the pain.
More surfing stories:
Making The Drop; A Poem of Sorts
The Ocean; God's Finest Invention?
It's Here; Come Ride My Beautiful Magic Carpet
The Humorous Truth; Willpower and Cold Water
Why Do Jerks Seem To Get the Best Waves?
haha I am the guy that spends time in the spin cycle as I just can't seem to grasp duck diving. However, once I am out the back it's no drama, I'll surf and ride off the back of the wave to keep me out back.
I'm glad to share my stories with you, @basejumper!
Thanks for stopping by.