It was a tourist trap, but we WERE tourists. And there did seem to be a lot of locals.
Janet and I were discussing this over lunch and Beale Street was much more 'real' than downtown Nashville (an infinite number of hopefuls who think they'll be signed tomorrow) or New Orleans' Bourbon Street (stag & hen do's throwing up in the gutters).
Will check the film out when it hits streaming - thanks for the tip.