An age we could wander. A City of Gods

in #travel4 years ago

In 1992, having returned from the tranquility of Nepal, I arrived in Calcutta during the Babri Mosque riots. Some Hindus who believed the disputed site was the birthplace of Lord Ram, had destroyed the 16th-century Babri Mosque, triggering clashes in which about 2,000 people were killed.

Calcutta was reletively quiet when the train pulled into Howrah Junction. Barricades had been put up across the roads, with a heavy police presence ensuring the curfew was observed. I made my way to the BaghBazar district and a low cost backpackers guesthouse. Venturing out was not advized, but to do so, it was wise to walk with hands held above your head.

I located a general store and, despite the restrictions, for an inflated price and some 'backsheesh', was able to purchase fuel for my Indian kerosene pump stove. Close by, a meat market. Shot on a low speed, with narrow depth of field, and hand held in low light, a butcher squats on the ground to cut lamb and goat for the Muslim and Bhuddist population of the city, conditions of the meat inspired me to stick to my adopted Indian vegetarian diet.

28 years later, Prime Minister Narendra Modi and two prominent Muslims, Iqbal Ansari and Mohammad Sharif, held a foundation-laying ceremony in August 2020, for a Hindu temple to be built on the same site. Sharif, who lived through the riots, was honoured with one of India's highest civilian awards for doing the last rites of unclaimed bodies. Wounds healed, 28 years after the riots.

Camera Canon AE1, 35mm SLR. E6 Ektachrome 100
All images in this post were taken by and remain the Copyright of Stuart Sampson

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