The most beneficial option in the long run is to shoot in manual mode - M mode, by setting the camera to ISO automatically. With these settings, I'm shooting some of the wedding situations.
By studying the three main camera settings - shutter speed, aperture, and ISO speed, you'll quickly get into the technical aspects of photography while achieving acceptable results in the meantime.
camera modes
Camera mode selector. For Nikon: P, A, S, M In Canon: P, Av, Tv, M.
Exposure correction button - your best friend
The second most important button on your digital camera after the shutter-release button is the "exposure compensation" button. It is enough just after the shot to look at the picture on the screen - is it okay or is it too dark or light? Whether you shoot in any of the auto modes or the way you described above, you can press the exposure correction button and turn the selector (that gear) to tell the camera: "The front photo was too dark, let's repeat it now, but make it brighter (dark). "As you progress into photography, you will begin to predict when the camera is going to be wrong, and you can do this before the picture itself.
Exposure correction
Exposure Correction - the most important button in the camera after the trigger.
Shutter speed - what speeds do we use?
One of the issues that you decide radically to capture "M" is blurring some pictures, as the camera could not freeze the movement. Here's how many speeds you can adjust the camera depending on the situation. Remember to always look at the image just shot on the camera screen, and if there is blur, pick up the speed, no matter what is written below:
1/500 of a second and more - Set the camera at that speed when shooting a car race, flying birds, a tree squirrel, and any other very fast moving objects. If there is a blur in the frames, increase the speed.
1/320 of a second - Universal speed that you will not be wrong with in 90% of the time. You'll take shots of people on the move, playing children, and so on.
1/160 of a second - The minimum speed at which I recommend taking pictures of moving people. For fixed objects I do not recommend less than 1/100 of a second.
1/60 of a second - Speed at which you shoot with a flash. This speed alone can not freeze the movement. This task is borne by the flash that flashes for approximately 1 / 750th of a second, and that is the way objects do not blur on the picture. However, keep in mind that the flash will not illuminate the building, the players on the pitch or the group during a concert - you have to shoot at a higher speed. 🙂
Photo of speed 1/50. The slow speed setting can also be used as a means of expression.
These are the speeds I use in my work and they refer to normal lenses with a focal length of between 14 and 85mm. For telephoto targets with a focal length of more than 85 millimeters, they should increase speeds as the flicker of the hands there is more palpable to the frame.
Shutter Speed> = Focal Length?
In the photography books, you'll find the following rule: The minimum speed you need to shoot by hand without flash is equal to the focal length of the lens. In other words, if you have a Nikkor 18-105mm f / 3.5-5.6 VR lens and shoot at 50mm focal length, you need to set the camera at a minimum of 1 / 50th of a second. In my opinion, this speed is not enough in most situations, so it's good to reassure yourself until you get the sense of the best photo speeds. One of the most common mistakes for beginners is to try to shoot at very slow speeds - this leads to blurry pictures and disappointments.
Few information about VibrationReduction (Canon ImageStabilization). This is an optical stabilization of some lenses, allowing you to shoot by hand at 2 to 3 times slower speed than if the stabilization was not there. In the example above, you could make a sharp photo not only 1/50, but also 1 / 10th, and 1/10th of a second. Optical stabilization eliminates flickering on your hands but does not freeze the motion of the person you are shooting, so it is useless to try to shoot a baby playing at a speed of less than 1 / 160th whether the lens has VR or not.
Why do not we always shoot at 1/1000 of a second? Because shutter speed is tied back in proportion to the aperture and ISO. The more you allow with one of the three, the more you need to limit yourself to the other two.
Imagine 3 jugs of 1 liter each. The temperature of the water in the first jug is +60C, in the second is +20C and in the third is +40C. By pouring them into one basin, the temperature of the water in the bowl would be +40C. Temperature of + 40C in the bed we can achieve even if the water in the first jug is almost +90 ° C, and the other two jugs is +15 ° C. Whatever the water temperature in one of the jugs, we can always compensate with the water from the other pitchers to achieve a temperature of +40 ° C. And if we add a little salt to the experiment, we will get an excellent blood circulation in the lower extremities 🙂
The example illustrates the relationship between the three basic settings of each digital camera - ISO (sensitivity of the sensor), exposure (instantaneous shutter speed) and aperture (the human eye pupil analogue in the camera lens).
When you turn the selector to the right 3 times and reduce the shutter speed, you must inevitably turn the front selector left 3 times to open the aperture or increase the ISO also with three spins (or twice ISO and 1 time aperture).
What do we gain and lose in the three basic settings?
With a brief exposure (shutter speed), we get sharp shots and frozen motion, but we're getting a very small amount of light. With prolonged exposure, we are at risk of blurring our photos, but light up the sensor with more light.
With the most apertured aperture we have the most light, but we risk the focus of the photo (much of the photo may not be in focus), our frames also have other weaknesses - lesser sharpness, shading on the edges (vignetting), chromatic aberrations (greening and lilation on the contours of the subject). With a darker aperture, our focus spans more depth, and at the same time we can take advantage of the lens's peak capabilities, but we're getting less light.
At a higher ISO, the sensor absorbs the light more, but adds noise to the frame. Lower ISO gives us noise-free images.
Low ISO, high ISO
Difference in noise at low and at high ISO
What settings do the novice photographer use for aperture and ISO?
If you have one of the many zoom lenses in the base class that have a variable aperture between f / 3.5 and f / 5.6 you will not be wrong if you set the camera to f / 5.6 in 90% of the time. For outdoor photos, you can even rotate the selector 1-2 times to the right to take f / 6.3 or f / 7.1
If you have a solid lens with a maximum aperture of f / 1.8, avoid shooting at less than f / 2.8 unless you know what you are doing. In case you are shooting in a discotheque or in another dark place, you better run the flash.
All cameras that have an auto ISO option have an option for the maximum one to include the camera. What ISO you're going to take depends on how much you get the shot. With the Nikon D750 ISO, the ISO image is even 10000. In the current base-class cameras it varies between 1000 and 3200 ISO.
Never compromise speed.
Allow yourself to compromise on the high ISO only when you are confident that the quality of the frame you get at that value is okay for you. Compatible with the aperture whenever you have reached ISO limit and shutter speed but avoid taking the most apertured aperture with f / 1.8 or f / 1.4 aperture lenses.
Never compromise taking pictures without lightning, compensating at low speed. There is a strong likelihood of being disappointed.
Never compromise taking dark shots to brighten on a computer at the expense of low ISO. A correctly ISO highlighted image is less noisy than a low ISO low frame, which then lightens to the correct values by post-processing.
In the top post, there are some inaccuracies that are allowed because of the basic idea of the article - the novice photographer should focus on shooting with manual settings and have a base on which to enter the photographic technique.
For example, ISO auto shooting is not a universal solution. In places where there is even light and much better to take full manual adjustments - this ensures you a consistent result.
Also, the ISO setting (light sensitivity) is not responsible for the amount of light entering the camera. It determines how to take light from the sensor - whether to absorb more or less light from the incoming.
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