Inspecting a used vehicle prior to purchase is very important in choosing a dependable vehicle and will identify possible costly repairs. The quality of your inspection can save you time and money.
Paying cash for your used vehicle is always ideal! Thank you "mauryflexsteeze" for your comment!
The majority of used vehicles sold by dealers, independent dealers, and wholesalers come from a nearby auto auction. These vehicles are mostly bank repossessions. Most auto auctions will not allow vehicle to be started or test driven. Many of these cars do have mechanical issues and can be doctored by seller. Do not be fooled with the cosmetic beauty of a vehicle. You can put lipstick on a pig, but it is still a pig.
Most important tip as mentioned in Part 1.
Make sure vehicle running. Remember from part 1 to start vehicle as soon as possible and keep running during entire inspection. This allows engine to build up pressure and temperature. This is critical for further inspection of vehicle engine compartment and components. Engine pressure and running temperature help identify any leaks, fumes, or abnormal noises.
The engine inspection requires no tools and any one can inspect with these tips.
Most vehicle owners (wholesale, dealer, or private) will change all fluids and possible degrease engine compartment and shine it up with engine dressing. It is the shock and awe effect. The "wow" effect! Or it could be they are hiding something. I always like looking at original non touched engine compartment. It gives you the true visual condition of the compartment. You will need light. Take a flashlight and preferably an LED type small light that has high lumens. Auto parts store sells these for around $10. You will also need napkins or paper towel when checking engine fluids. Dress to get dirty!
Basic fluid level and condition inspection - Oil.
Pull oil dip stick. Check for level and should be on or near "max" area on dip stick. Check for color, feel and smell of oil. Oil has to be checked with vehicle off and this is done after test drive and engine pressure and temperature is at their peak. The oil should be translucent and feel silky between fingers with no grit feel. The oil should not be dark, white, or gray in color. The oil should not smell burnt. This will be an indication that engine has engine oil flow issues, worn internal parts, or has water leaking into oil within engine. Now check muffler pipe outlet exhaust at rear of vehicle. Stick finger up into pipe outlet and rub all around inside. This residue should be dark gray or light grey and feel like powder with slight moisture. This residue should not be thick, wet, oily, or black. This indicates vehicle is burning oil and has internal engine gasket leaks allowing oil to escape into air chambers of engine and coming out the outlet. Now with light, check bottom of engine area around the oil pan for any oil residue. Search along top of crossing suspension components directly under engine for oil residue. Search from top of engine to bottom with light and if vehicle has an engine shield under engine, look at engine shield from top down for pooling of any oils or fluids. Most dealers and wholesalers degrease and power wash engine on top and bottom. This is why we start vehicle and allow to run and search again after test drive. This running of vehicle will produce heat and internal pressure and will be noticeable if engine has leaks. Also look at ground under vehicle and search for stains or drops of any oil from engine to ground. Some private owners park vehicle in same place all the time and creates stains on ground under vehicle. Most oil leaks are at back of engine at top going to bottom of engine. Use light to inspect these areas especially behind engine in the tight area closest to panel behind engine and where feet are placed when sitting inside. Inspect top to bottom of engine and you will need to crawl under vehicle. Sometimes you may not have floor space to inspect bottom. In this situation take vehicle for test drive and search for curb of incline to allow you to drive up on with one side of vehicle to allow room to crawl under. This inspection of engine compartment procedure will need to be done again after test drive. Leaks are expensive to fix and if not addressed can overheat engine and lock it up. Burning oil will create bad gas mileage and frequent filling. Water in oil will need engine to be pulled and torn apart.
Fluid level and condition inspection - transmission.
Pull dip stick and check fluid level. Fluid level needs to be accurate with this dip stick. Low fluid indicates a leak. The fluid should be a red translucent color, with no grit feel, or burnt smell. Next go into vehicle. Apply the parking brake (vehicle is still running) and put your foot on brake all at the same time. Next, put into drive and rev up engine by lightly applying the gas pedal and release and repeat several times. This produces engine torque. Then put into Reverse and repeat. By putting vehicle in both drive and reverse this torques engine to the right and left. Then put into all gears and repeat. This will check internal transmission gears, motor mounts, transmission mounts, drive axles, and u joints if equipped. Vehicle engine should not make awkward noises, pop up or slam down while torqueing engine during engine repeated engine rev up and switching into drive, reverse, or any other gear on shifter selector. The engine pops or slams indicates worn mounts, worn drive axle, or bad u joints. Odd noises indicate internal gear issues or engine component wear. Torqueing engine creates stress on engine and transmission and no banging, screeching, clanking, or metal to metal noises should be heard.
Checking the all the pulleys.
Pulleys are the engine components that the drive belts seat on in several areas of front engine to create motion of the individual components for operation. Most cars will have four or more pulleys and we do not need to get into each one. Just know what to look for. Seek the drive belt or belts in between engine and cooling fan or fans. This area in most vehicle is right in front of you as soon as the hood is opened. Some models will have belt or belts on side of car towards the front wheel due to engine sitting sideways. Some fans are not mounted to engine and does not matter. We are looking at each area that the drive belt or belts make contact on a spinning type wheel. These wheels will be at top and bottom, center and sides of the engine. Check the inside of the drive belt for any cracks or abnormal wear. Abnormal wear is indicated with hair like pieces coming off belt and cracks will be noticeable but engine will have to be off to check. Hence is why we inspect compartment again after test drive. Yes ... we will inspect this engine compartment again after test drive. We are looking for the belt to rotate straight and even along all contact wheel components. Check this from all angles and as many angles you can see from. Side view is the best. Look for wobble on any wheel or abnormal noises on any of these wheels. Any wobble, metal to metal, or clanging noise and you have a worn pulley that is connected to an important engine component (power steering, alternator, idler, crank shaft balance, power brake, and air conditioning compressor).
Checking the cooling system inside engine compartment.
The radiator is most commonly seen as soon as you lift up hood and is under or behind the latch that holds hood locked and closed on vehicle. Anti freeze stains indicate leaks. Look into, as best as possible with light thru any means possible to see all along front and backside of radiator. Look thru front grille of vehicle and between front headlights. Look into bottom corners inside between engine and the radiator for anti freeze pools or stains. Stains will be etched into vehicle parts. Stains will look similar to water that has dried on cardboard ... the outline. Search for leaks, stains, and notice any large areas of fins on radiator for being smashed. Fins are what cool liquid going thru this radiator. Excessive smashed fins can cause flow issues and not allow vehicle to cool properly. Visibly inspect all hoses and search for antifreeze stains along ends of hoses. One hose at top and one hose at bottom. These hoses go from engine to radiator. Look for bulges, rips, cuts, or antifreeze stains. Check coolant reservoir bottle. You want to see a clear clean plastic bottle with no signs of a rust color inside or around this reservoir bottle. Radiator fluid level correct and should have a neon looking antifreeze in bottle. Rust residue indicates lack of improper antifreeze mix ratio. Non neon looking fluid in bottle may be a sign of leaking cooling system and constantly replacing fluids thru this reservoir using water. Search for leaks if fluid is not neon green as mentioned above. Next go inside and check temperature gauge and should have heated up since vehicle was started at beginning as soon as you got keys. This gauge will be in the 195 degree to 205 degree area.
Charging system inspection. Battery and related components.
The battery should not have any corrosion build up around areas of connection from cables to battery. This is an easy fix by pouring a "Coke" over these post that come out of battery. Cables attached to these posts coming off battery should not have burnt areas anywhere on these two cables. Some cables will have other smaller wires along and attached with cable to battery and the same applies. Signs of burning may be a result of arcing of electrical components and is a sign of electrical issues. Cables to battery should not be frayed. Inspect all wires and make sure all visible wires are not cut or tampered with aftermarket non manufacture splicing repairs sleeves. Usually these sleeves are colored in yellow, blue and may be clear and attaching two wires together. Some under tree mechanics will use black electrical tape. Car manufactures do not use these to put wires together and is a indication the electrical system had been modified or tampered with for various reasons. Next go into vehicle and check alternator gauge. It should be reading between 13.5 - 15.0 volts. Voltage out of this range indicates failing alternator, an electrical draw, or a short within electrical system. Finding a draw or short is very expensive. Replacing electrical system parts is expensive.
Air cleaner
Check air cleaner. Oil in air cleaner on the inside towards engine is a sign of internal engine issues. Inspecting air cleaner will give you an idea if vehicle was well maintained. An Owner that takes care of vehicle always replace these when needed and is a sign of a well kept vehicle.
After test drive, vehicle should not have any burnt or antifreeze smell, or steam coming out from any area of vehicle besides exhaust outlet at rear of vehicle. Lift up hood after test drive and again inspect for leaks, stains, or steam coming from engine or radiator. Check under vehicle for leaks or steam using light and check all under engine area.
The next article we will cover suspension inspection and the test drive. Again, after your test drive repeat these same tips mentioned above. Searching for indications of any fluid leaks or abnormal noises.
Test driving vehicle article will have helpful tips. These test drive tips will apply stress to vehicle. Creating this stress will reveal many mechanical issues not normally identified on a normal test drive.
Thank you for your time.
Gideon2017
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