I grew up around lakes, and near to the baltic sea. No wave surfing, but lot's of wind and eventually kite surfing. My family was neck deep into everything water related. When they invited me to learn kite surfing, I was studying, and I knew - if I start surfing, I'll neglect the studies. So I kept to swimming. Still my favorite, especially in lakes. Unfortunately, that's not possible around here.
So, I do understand the addictions of water :-D I'm happy to read that you were able to surf after such a long time of one injury after the other!