When Demilitarized Zone is mentioned, people often think of the DMZ in Korea which split Korean peninsula into North and South Korea. However, there was another DMZ which split North and South Vietnam in 19 years from 1954 to 1973, before the Fall of Saigon in 1975. We should not be fooled by its name Demilitarized Zone, its surrounding was a terrified battlefield where witnessed milestone battles in Vietnam War.
Tour of DMZ is one of my favorite tour as well as for whom wants to know more about Vietnam War. The visit of the Citadel of Quang Tri, Hien Luong Bridge old border, Khe Sanh combat base as well as Vinh Moc Tunnel is included in the tour.
I often take people on tour from Hue City, heading to the North at 7:30 a.m because the tour is 10 hour long. Sometimes, we even start at 6:00 a.m if we want to visit Hamburger Hill. As a result, there are two way for going North, via Ho Chi Minh road with Hamburger Hill or via Highway 1 without Hamburger Hill.
After 30 minutes on the road, we are on a 10 km part of Highway 1 which is from My Chanh Bridge to Quang Tri township. In 1972, it witnessed a flee of innocent people heading South to escape from Easter Offensive. It resulted to 20,000 casualty of civilians, U.S army, ARVN and NVA. The name "The Road of Sorrow" reflects how horrible this battle was for the people. As you may know story about Kimberly Mitchell. She later served 17 years in US Navy, was found next to her dead mom on this road in the summer 1972.
Photo credit
The flee was the result of the battle in Citadel of Quang Tri. The 81 day battle which happened here cleared all houses and building in the Cidadel as well as in Quang Tri township. US army, ARVN and NVA fought to occupy every centimetres of land in this town, so that they could get more advantages in Paris Peace Accords 1973. Look at the photo we took in front of Bo De school, now they preserve it as a historical site of the battle.
Keeping heading North, we will arrive Highway 9 which leads us to border with Laos. The Highway 9 runs to the West where we can see Camp Caroll, Rockpile, Khe Sanh Combat base and Lang Vay Special Force base.
Camp Caroll was an artillery base of US Marine Corps and ARVN which was part of fence in the South of DMZ. It witnessed ARVN Lieutenant Colonel Pham Van Dinh surrendered in Easter Offensive attack after 200 rounds of 130mm fire from NVA. A memorial was built here and the photo shows how it looks nowadays.
Along with camps, bases on Highway 9 is Rockpile, a rocky mountain which has no way to climb up except helicopters. Therefore, it had a great view to keep US marines safe from guerrilla attack from NVA. It still has a flag pole on the top. We often stop on side of road to take photo of it from distance. A story was told that US marines on Rockpile could take a shower with water from helicopters and their dirty clothes were taken to Dong Ha to be washed. There is a clear space behind Rockpile which was called Razorback. It was used to detect the attack from NVA during the war.
Because Highway 9 was built by the US. to cut the Ho Chi Minh Trails which were used to transport weapons and soldiers from the North to the South of Vietnam, we can see their cut on Da-Krong Bridge.
This new bridge replaces an old part of Ho Chi Minh Trails. If you visit the Hamburger Hill and go North via Ho Chi Minh road, you will meet Highway 9 at this bridge. Ho Chi Minh Trails has different name Road 559 meaning built in May 1959. On ther other side of the bridge is a memorial which writes the builders of the trails. Sometimes we stop here for a quick picnic lunch, or go back to Dong Ha city for food later.
I always remember this moment having food on the way because we traveled there on Tet Holiday and we had no restaurant opened nearby. However, we had great food and beer and joy.
Finally, we arrive Khe Sanh Combat base, one of the must-see place in DMZ tour. Khe Sanh was a US Marine base which was under attack by NVA from 21 Jan to 9 July 1968 with hill fight and artillery attack. It is the longest single battle in Vietnam War under the belief of General Westmoreland to turn this into a trap for NVA. However, it was a distraction from NVA in Jan 1968 when they actually attacked to cities and towns in South Vietnam in Tet Offensive.
Center of Khe Sanh Combat base was Ta Con Airport where now left a short part of landing strip. There are some tanks, helicopters, carriers and trenches leaven in the middle of the field.
One thing I like here is coffee! The airport now surrounded by arabica coffee farm. Therefore, coffee is sold in the little shop here where we can enjoy a peace after researching about terrified battles. The museum here will show you some information of the destination but discussion can show us more perspective of the war.
After visiting Khe Sanh base, we head back to Highway 9 and meet Highway 1 again. From Highway 1, we go up North and are in the middle of DMZ - Hien Luong Bridge.
Demilitarized Zone is a 10 mile wide lane along Hien Luong River, 5 miles North and 5 miles South from river banks. It is on the 17th parallel which is the border of North and South Vietnam after Geneva Accords 1954.
The bridge is painted with two colors showing the history. The war on the bridge was the war of colors, war of propaganda and war of ideology. Indeed, loudspeakers were set up here, they are now in the museum next to the bridge. Flag towers were built on both side but the South one was knocked down after the reunification. A 100 meter long bridge took our nation 21 years to cross it!
Cross the bridge, we arrive the North! The area is now beautiful village with buffaloes, rice paddy fields and sandy beaches. However, underground is a system of tunnels. There are many tunnels in this area but Vinh Moc tunnel is the largest and most famous.
Photo credit
Vinh Moc Tunnel is located in the village and it is a living place for the village during bombing by the US. They were the suppliers for NVA on Con Co Island offshore. The tunnel is 2000 meters long with 13 gates. Four of them lead to the beach. We often go in gate 3 and go out gate 5. During the time under the tunnel, we go in and out gate 4 and 6. There is no phone signal in the tunnel. It is very hot there so we sweat a lot in summer. We need to be careful walking because steps are not even, there are some holes in that and in rainy season, water comes through and it is muddy.
Photo credit
The tunnel is dark but there are light bulb inside. However, I often take torch with me. If you do not have one, you can borrow it from drinks shops near the ticket booth. Remember to thank them after by buying a can of coke. Price is the same!
Tour of DMZ always triggers me to study more about a part of our history. I love to share story of my family during the tour which links the destination. Although I was born after the War but the stories from alive witnesses are always great source of information for us to know more about the past. If you want to know more about this area, I would love to be your guide!
Some photo credit to Shy Jang and Le Nhat Quang - my colleagues.
@tungphong
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Thank you all for your support. Have a nice day!
Thanks for sharing an important part of Vietnam history with us @quangnguyen.
I am glad to share our history. This is my favorite tour. It is great that my share is welcomed by you all. <3
You can also try to add some personal experience to your post to take it up a notch. Facts and history are great, but talking about it from your own view point, how you see the place, what it means to you,the best and not so good about it, insider local tips etc is what makes your post unique from say the local tourism promotion board or travel company website
Thank you for your advice. I will apply it to my next posts. Appreciate it. <3
great advice from expect. try ur best and keep moving!!
Amazing DZ article !!
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Em rất thích sân bay tà cơn , đứng trên vĩ tuyến 17 cảm thấy rất bồi hồi anh ha.
đi tour DMZ này lúc nào cũng vui
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Bài viết cực chất lượng a ơi, từ thông tin đưa ra ảnh. Tấm ảnh con B17 hay B52 nhìn lúc lướt thấy tưởng bên nước ngoài thiệt
Cảm ơn em. Vui vì bài về lịch sử được đón nhận. Chiếc trên sân bay Tà Cơn đó là chiếc C130, chuyên chở hàng hóa ấy. :)
Lúc đầu e cũng nghĩ là con C130 nhưng thấy bài viết về lịch sử tưởng hiện vật chiến tranh, nghĩ lại thì đâu có thu giữ được con nào hiện đại đâu:))
Haha đúng rồi. Ở Tà Cơn bị hủy sạch mà. Mấy con này đem từ Chu Lai ra trưng bày như em nói đấy. Base cho B52 thì nằm ở Thái với Guam ấy.
I missed Hue and Quang Tri so much. Thank you for sharing @quangnguyen
Glad it is welcomed by you all. Thank you.
My father used to tell me stories about war and his time in Quang Tri, about Khe Sanh combat. I can't imagine how devastating the war was. Thanks for sharing a part of Vietnam history to the world!
Cái ảnh đầu tiên em tưởng ở nước ngoài. Đẹp quá. Một bài viết có giá trị. Cảm ơn những chia sẽ của anh
Cảm ơn bạn. Rất vui vì được mọi người support.
Tuyệt vời quá anh ạ :) CHưa có time đọc nhưng comment trc rồi lúc nào có time quay lại đọc kỹ từng chi tiết :)
Thanks Trang. Viết nhiều rồi được mọi người đọc cũng thấy vui lắm :)
Keep it up anh !!!
Yay! 🤗
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