Wherever you live in the world, I'm sure there's an insect that has kept you awake, bitten you raw, buzzed in your ear or landed in your drink. I'm not sure there's many insects more famous or notorious than the Scottish midge, a biting variety commonly found in the west in late spring and summer. Camped between a loch and the ocean in Applecross, we were miserable in our tent waiting for dark, millions of them like rain on the thin fabric between us and being bitten alive.
How I had ended up in Applecross within two weeks of moving to the UK to be with the man I'd known barely a week is a story I hold dear to my heart, even if there were midges. Jet lagged and overwhelmed by this massive life change, everything seemed heightened, and it's those kind of emotional memories that stick with you.
We'd come up for a road trip to the Outer Hebrides with Jamie's sister and her husband and friends, hoping to see an eclipse, which we didn't, because it was dark and overcast. Nevermind, there was much fun to be had, even if I didn't yet get the Britishness of this cold and strange holiday in a caravan park on a windswept, treeless island. I didn't even really understand my soon to be husband, who was so excited about the Hebrides he swore to move there, and I imagined myself living in a house just like the ruin below, which freaked me out some.
My son was learning to read and he was reading Roald Dahl's 'The Twits'.
One.
Word.
At.
A.
Time.
Still, you couldn't be mad at a little boy learning to read.
We visted the Stonehenge of the North at Callanaish, which are the oldest neolithic standing stones in Britian (many say that Stonehenge should be dubbed the Callanaish of the south for this reason). That was my first real experience of standing stones - cold, wonderfilled, and wondering how I had fallen in love with a man with a beard and ended up in such a place.
After the Hebrides, of which I remember little but some joke about the Faroe Islands (which were in Egypt, apparently, a British word pun on Pharoahs - who WERE these people?), whiskey, clouds, and a very freaking cold dip in the ocean (was this truly SUMMER?), we left our friends behind and drove our old Peugot 405 to Applecross.
Applecross is famous for the mountain pass that gets you there. It's the highest mountain passs in Britain and spectacular. I rue I don't have my own photos, but in 2003 we didn't have camera phones and we weren't totally wedded to the idea you had to take a photo of everything you saw. Please content yourself with one from the internet, which gives you an idea of how spectacular this mountain pass is.
When I first got to the UK I had about 2000 AUD in my pocket, and we bought a Peugot 405 estate, because coming from Australia, I wasn't going to be content with a little car and wanted to sleep in the back of it. ON this trip it was Jarrah that slept in the back, and we slept in a tent. It'd be this car that took us over the pass, because why take the long road when you can take the absolute high road, necking a cider before you attempted it? This is one of my favourite pictures of Jamie. Now I think he'd be worrying himself over the mountain, his carefree self consumed by work and life. No wonder we long for these times.
Just a little note on this place - Applecross, which faces the outer Hebrides, wasn't even accessible by road until the 20th century. The town, which people call Applecross which isn't - it's just a row of houses called 'The Street', is very isolated and the pass to get there reaches a 2,054 m above sea level and is one of Scotlands most treachourous roads. There is a chapel there from the 7th century - now that's older than any Europeon civilisation evidence I'd seen in Australia, that's for sure. Little mind blown. We were headed there because Jamie had dreamt he'd spend his 30th birthday there, before he'd even heard such a place existed. Cool beans, right?
So here's us looking a bit feral, camped by the sea, with a loch in the other direction. I wonder if you can still free camp there like we did then. I know times have changed and it's probably full of van lifers. My son was being silly putting ribbons in Jamie's hair and I swear he hasn't had a beard like that for twenty years. We look tired but I tell you what we're happy. Honestly, we've been together a month in that photo, or less than. I'm still jet lagged.
This photo is one of my favourite pictures of Jarrah. He's obviously washing dishes - train 'em young! He's only about 5 here and has just learnt to read. I just want to reach through time and squish him in a big hug. I mean I still do that now, but. Hug your kids dudes. They grow up fast. I remember him being cold (he was sleepoing on a mattress in the back of the Peugot) and us giving him a hot rock from the fire wrapped in a towel that we dubbed Rocky, and used as a caveman's hot water bottle for the rest of the trip. We collected mussels from the sea and put them by the fire until they sizzled and hissed.
So anyway, back to the midges. I told @meesterboom I'd get around to telling this story and I seem to be taking my time about it as I go for a slow stroll down memory high street.
If you've camped in certain places in Scotland in summer you'd know these little bitey insects are sent by Beezlebub himself. When the swarm comes in it's worse that being chased by zombies. We had no option than to huddle miserably in our tent, listening to the buggers rain upon the fabric. ON our third night there we high tailed it to the inn, though we had no money - somehow one always finds enough for a pint. It also happened to be Jamie's 30th birthday, so it was entirely justified.
It was kinda depressing being in the best seafood pub in Scotland, as they said it was at the time, and not being able to order anything, not even a bowl of fries. We were watching these mouth watering dishes float by and were just drooling. Still, it was better than being dinner for midges.
After we'd spent our last pennies, Jamie headed to the phone box to call his Mum so she could wish him happy birthday.
And here's where the magic happens - she told him that his Nan had deposited a thousand pounds into each of the grandkid's bank accounts as a kind of early inheritance.
A thousand pounds.
That buys a lot of pints, fries and seafood I tell you. In fact, we spent nearly ninety pounds, which was more than we'd ever spent on a meal before and only twice since, and that was when we were both working full time. I still have the scallop shell in a box as a memento. We felt like the richest and most grateful people on earth.
It may not be the most dramatic story in the world, but it's our story, and we remember it well - the beautiful mountain pass, the loch, cooking mussels by the fire, the story of the old man with the kippers in his beard, the midges, and the best seafood meal we have had before or since.
With Love,
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This is one lovely happy picture! 😍
That landscape gives an amazing view, never had chance to visit Scotland and I so would like too, nature is astonishing! Insects does seems harmless when alone, but in swarm - threatening 😱
He he .. we look tired!!! And so pale. But goodness, this is our third week of being together in what's now a twenty year relationship... So cute. We are so silly in love, utterly smitten.
Twenty sounds a lot! :D
I wish you many many years together, even tho pale and tired, but still happy!
!LUV the old travel stories and adventures. I made it to the The Isle of Skye in Scotland but it looks like there is lots more there worth checking out too
Skye was amazing but I wouldn't want to live there! Jamie had me 😫 worried and I was freaking out about lack of trees...😂
Aawww that’s great to hear. Didn’t know that you wen all the way to Scotland. Wow… what an adventure.
I still have much to explore here. Living in the highlands 4 weeks now 😉
Thanks for sharing this beautiful memory.
Have a great weekend 👋🏻😊🥰
I've been to Scotland a couple of times! Wait what are you doing in the highlands, oh maybe I knew that... I'm intrigued now!!
That’s cool, I moved from Spain… via a month long road trip to the highlands 😎😋
Got it documented here in 6 parts… the last part is in full snow ⛄️
Maybe you didn’t know 😇
That was a stroke of providence, the phone call and thee resulting meal!
They truly are wee buggers. Its the fact that there are so many of em. One of my worst memories of them was in Oban where I couldn't breath because there were so many in the air and had to put a bandanna round my mouth and afterward when I took it off it was thick with dead midges. Yo could barely see the cloth!
That road sounds intriguing. I have been on one with a similar warning on the way to Mallaig from Glasgow. I wondered at points if my shitty car would cope!
Omg they are HIDEOUS. How do you even LIVE there? They are HORRIFYING.
Had you not heard of this pass? It's truly incredible. I'd love to do it again. We saw the sign and felt no fear. These days we are more cautious, though saying that, we went on some mad roads in Tassie and survived 😂
If we ever go to Scotland again (doubtful) I'd go back. Pop the pass on your bucket list!
Hope you are well and glad you enjoyed the story!
I am going up that way in summer so I will be sure to look out for it!
Midges are horrible but I finally found an anti midge stuff that actually works which is no mean feat!!! It still doesn't help about breathing them in but it's a lot better than before!
I am grand, hope you guys are too :0)
We are three quarters grand. That's not too bad.
Inhaling midges sounds awful. Honestly people go on about Australia being dangerous but midges, nettles and wasps are insane over there.
I hope your repellent works and remember not to inhale more than necessary!!
I do so love the stories from back when you met! I never got to Scotland when my grandma took me to England in 1970. It was fun to read how you found it in 2003.
There's some super clear memories and many vague ones... I'd go back to that time in a heart beat. I wasn't as annoyed at him for throwing the towel over the door then 🤣🤣😂
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What a tremendous experience you have shared with us.
I think most campgrounds are full of bugs, but this one you mention seems to be out of the ordinary. I loved the end of your post, i think life boils down to looking for those little moments of happiness and when you find them they are treasured for eternity.
Thank you so much for sharing your journey. !LUV
It was SO memorable.... Funny how things like that stick. Thanks for your lovely comment.
Wonderful story and love the photos of the young man! We're at the precious stage he was at and it's both wonderful as well as challenging lol they are developing their sense of identity and clashing with things around them to try and break out on their own in some ways.
We have some things around here that are sort of similar, though in different respects. They are green-head flies and fuck are they annoying! They bite and those shits hurt, it makes for a long time when outdoors. I haven't experienced them in a while but last summer when we were in Maine I got those shits again attacking us and damn it was miserable.
I love these types of memories!
Oh man, I love this photo of my baby. Honestly just enjoy every precious moment. I wish I'd taken more photos ..
We have march flies here... They are annoying too!!
Great story and told well as usual 😉 Often these big leaps of faith when we are young define our path through life.
They sure do. Why can't we do those leaps now? It definitely defined my next twenty years! Ps he has less hair and beard now 🤣
i love your story, its beautiful👏
btw, your shot is perfect, have a nice day👍
Which shot?
what a beautiful journey!
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I see: curating via Threads. Not a bad idea for maximizing exposure.
Thanks mate .. checked my threads first and was stoked you shared it!!! Thanks.
What a great post indeed! I would like to visit some days those places 🙏
I'd love to go back! Thanks for stopping by..
What a cool story! Enjoyed the helter-skelter way how you skip back and forth between this weird remote place, the people you love, the camping experience, the midges, [plus Callanish], only to finish off with this very common aspect of low budget travel: going from being nearly broke to indulging in the best delicacies.
Helter skelter was my life back then 😂 I just wrote with editing so it's probably all over the shop. Wild times.
I enjoyed your story.
What a great love/adventure story. That's the way to live life....just take a deep breath and leap into the future....no fear!!
Somehow one always finds enough...should be a life motto
True! Wish I still had that now... These days I get more anxious!!!
Your post makes me long for a trip myself I see that your investment in a bigger car is being put to good use.
Be safe and keep travelling to explore more
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Oh it's so cool you found it on Threads. A car you can travel in is a good investment indeed.
This place looks so good that anyone can think of visiting it. You shared these awesome photos.
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