Part 5/19:
He touches on the challenges of competitive surfing, acknowledging the immense pressure to perform. Shane shares how this environment often led to rivalries, jealousy, and emotional breakdowns. Notably, he admits to intense competitive thoughts, including visualizing harmful scenarios for opponents—an indication of how adrenaline and pressure can mutate even the most relaxed surfer into a fierce competitor.
Today, Shane treasures surfing for its meditative qualities. Without the stress of competition, he now finds pure joy in the act—relaxing at the beach, sharing waves with loved ones, and experiencing the ocean's beauty. He underscores that surfing, at any skill level, is inherently fulfilling, representing a way to connect deeply with nature and oneself.