Part 8/19:
He admits that, despite the thrill, such conditions induce anxiety. The precise timing, the environment, the physical risk—all combine into what he calls a "life-changing" moment. For him, catching one of these epic waves symbolizes the peak of his being—an experience that makes everything worthwhile.
He emphasizes that, while mastering such waves is difficult, the true value lies in the connection to nature, the skill, and the mental state required. The thrill of surfing gigantic waves is like a dance with the universe—an intense, fleeting moment that leaves an indelible mark on the soul.