The sixth day of bikepacking in France by myself.
The chirping of the first birds on the morning wakes me up. Through the windows of the barn that was my shelter for the night I see the sky, still dark, a few clouds. As more and more birds enter the morning symphony, I pack up my camp. Not a drop of the expected rain had fallen that night. Optimistic, that the forecast would be wrong another time I start cycling into the sunrise at 6am.
Quiet roads, green trees and endless canals on my side, I am excited to see what kind of place I would come across and choose for todays morning coffee.
When I cross a little town, I am lucky enough to catch some of the first market stalls opening up for the day. Some fruits, eggs and cheese, because yes I am in that country again. The sheep cheese country, France.
It starts to rain but I don’t mind. My mood is great, a few drops of rain wouldn’t change that, and all the plants have to drink too, is my mindset. Eventually I find shelter next to a public toilet, which might sound little romantic, but the fact I had running water in abundance was my sign to have an extended cozy breakfast, watching the rain.
Sometimes it takes little to destroy the peace we build for ourselves.
I still don’t mind the rain, but now we are both reflecting the same mood. As if I could get away from my emotions I am racing through the green hills and the forests. Faster and further, I don’t ever want to stop.
Well knowing emotions aren’t something you can cycle towards or away from I still keep going. I want to test my limits. Each town I tell myself would be the last one. Just one further.
My clothes, my hair, my shoes, everything is wet. A lot of dirt sticks all over the place, to my bare legs, my bike, my shoes I look and feel disgusting. Now I need to keep cycling to stay warm. As soon as I stop I feel the creeping wet of the rain on my skin.
The next town never offers what I hope for. Meanwhile not even myself knows what that would be.
Someone that picks me up from the wet street. A shelter, food and maybe a conversation. Something or someone gentle getting me out of this mess.
And how can I expect any stranger to do me that favour? Wasn’t it myself that put me in this situation? Wasn’t it my choice to ignore the weather and cycle through the rain like I was chased by dragons?
The second last “just one more town”. Turns out to be a desert. Everything is closed.
The last town, has no more options than the previous one.
I am close to despair. Alone, cold, hungry, scared and exhausted.
No, in fact this town has one more option than the last one. An open bakery. I get in, not sure how bread could help me out of this mess. Maybe the dry place and the nice smell of baked wheat would inspire me with a solution.
The scent and warmth feel awesome, but it is the bakery-woman that saves me. Calling around and telling each passing customer I was looking for a dry place to sleep, I end up in the car with Virgini while my bike gets to pass the night in the bakery.
A warm shower, food, conversation, washed clothes and a bed never felt that good.
Overwhelmed by the kindness of these strangers, I can’t help but wonder: How did I get here?
Or maybe that’s just how life is, unfair, hard and very beautiful.
The next morning both Virgini and the Bakery-Woman drop off their daughters at school, I am getting passed over from one to the other. Back at my bike and between many thank yous and me still not being able to believe how good, no great everything had turned out, I leave the bakery, not before she quickly hands me a sandwich for later and some cookies.
...and I decide it is going to be an amazing day.
Thank you for passing by, it’s a pleasure to share this adventure with you, enjoy your week!
All photos and words are owned by ©kesityu taken and written by myself.
Baked goods always make things better!
The kindness of strangers, man. The thing that makes all this worthwhile. So glad you had that in your journey. Take care and wishing you clear skies <3
Thank you!! Baked goods and the smell of coffee, surely they trigger some kind of "now-I-am-save" instinct:)
I would certainly be that someone and so would my twin sister, without a doubt.
I love to find out how this story had a happy ending starting at a bakery.
Happy cycling!✨
Thank you💛
...so I should make my way down to Portugal😁
It's lovely to see and know, that even if sometimes it feels like a lot of fucked up humans on this planet, there are so many lovely ones around too🌻
This is actually such a beautiful story, one including a bakery! I really love the fact that people are still willing to help, that there are still goodness out there in the world.
I always appreciate your writing, it is almost as if you are taking us along with you on this ride.
I think I might use this vignette as inspiration for a short story!
Thank you so much for sharing, and keep well, find the small bakeries, and keep on cycling.
Thank you! That's a lovely compliment, I love to hear that, inspires me to keep up with it!
And yess, I guess crossing France, the odds that Bakeries are going to appear in the story where high, nevertheless I wouldn't have expected them to play that roll...:)
Life always hits us with unexpected turns, right? I am glad and jealous of your experiences! Keep well, and safe travels.
Thank you, always for all your words. It is indeed!
And keep well you too!
Aww, this is moving dearest @kesityu.fashion - I have known something similar when travelling-camping (on foot) alone, and there were moments of such tangle within myself that I thought I couldn't go on - but ultimately it can be character-building, eh! 🤗 It's healthy to work these emotions out to the surface!
What a blessing to get warmed through and fed like this - people can be so beautiful when we are in need. I love hearing about your travels dearest friend, as I sit plump and lazy in my big stone house 😋
Huge love to you in your pedal-powered adventure 😍🤗
Character building indeed, feels like digesting all my thoughts, emotions and who I am, very intense and beautiful, as most parts of this life😊
Thank you😘
I miss a bit of lazy? (super productive and inspirational) sitting around in your stone house😁
What beautiful photos and beautiful scenery, it must be a real beauty to be able to ride such beautiful roads by bike, for bike lovers, this is a dream. Greetings, very nice post!
Thank you very much:) Yes these where some beautiful roads indeed!
You see, that's what I was saying. I forget the sunscreen and you didn't mind the rain... until humanity beats us and the fatigue and thoughts that have that doubleness of fear and anguish, but that we can control. We are human. It is a great experience to reach the limit, to lose all comfort, to live... life cannot be a straight line.
And there are always rewards along the way. You know it.
You get it. 💜
Maybe that's where we feel more human again, because we realize we can't escape it.
Thank you for leaving your thoughts!
How nice to see there are helping people everywhere.
I've once read about a website with addresses of people that offer a place to spend the night for traveling cyclists. I only forget what it was. It could come in handy maybe if this also covers France. In what part of France are you now?
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It is, I am amazed every time how friendly and open people are all around this world!
Yes I have heard about it "warm showers" or something like that, I haven't yet looked into it, maybe I will:)
That part was on Eurovelo 6 around Decize, south of Orleans.
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