Nowadays cars are not worth the sticker price and are financed longer than they are built to last therefore why have a car payment and pay to repair it too? Buying a used vehicle is more economical if you purchase the right one and it is also a better vehicle for new drivers!
Buying a used vehicle from any dealer or wholesaler you will be excepted to pay a premium price for it. It is more economical to purchase a used vehicle from a private owner. Even better if you know them. If you choose to finance a used vehicle you have the option to get prequalified with your local bank or use an online company such as Capital One that usually offer's lower interest rates than dealership would provide you. Dealerships usually use the same company's to get you financed with at a higher interest rate and sell it off to the same companies at a lower interest rate to profit. Skip the middle man go straight to the source. Inspecting the vehicle is key when purchasing a used vehicle below you will find some helpful tips that I recommend to avoid purchasing a money pit and to avoid leaving you stranded.
Prior to searching and buying a used vehicle it is best to decide the price limit and type of vehicle you desire. This is best practice for shopping for a used vehicle for many reasons. Searching for the same model is best. Viewing the same model allows you to compare each vehicle with each other. Comparing body alignment on exterior panels, suspension drivability issues, and mechanical issues between the vehicles. No fret if your looking at a type and not a model. These guidelines apply to any used car.
Decide on price range. Use used car market tool prices in your area. For example NADA website or Kelly blue book. Why pay more? These tools below can help you understand the value of any vehicle you are searching for.
Do not always purchase the first vehicle you view or drive. Use average of large numbers and look at a minimum of ten vehicles preferably the same model. This will allow you to familiarize yourself with the vehicle and you will notice deficiencies from one vehicle to the next. Searching different models is still not an issue. This series will help you choose the most dependable vehicle for you without unforeseen repairs.
Never accept asking price as final. The price is always a wish price for maximum profit. Price will include any repairs and maintenances done on vehicle prior to sell. Unless you find a private individual that needs to sell car for various reasons. The Seller tries to get back all their expenses. Your not trying to make them profit. Always price the vehicle after inspection and add up any cost for any repairs needed to lower asking price. Always show seller issues you notice.
Make sure you are not buying from a wholesale seller in disguise. Wholesalers are cheap and will hide defects in vehicle to maximize profit. Most wholesale dealers work out of the house and disguise themselves as normal average day "Joe". Always look at title and see if person on title matches the seller and check transferring dates on title. Chances are if seller is not on title and dates on title are recent ... your dealing with a wholesaler. Buy a used vehicle from a private owner that is on title and dates are old. Proves title/vehicle was owned by that owner. The longer the owner has had vehicle ... the better.
Ask for repair and maintenance receipts. This will tell you if vehicle has been loved and or if vehicle has had issues.
Reputable dealers will fix and/or replace/repairs. Dealers will mark up price of vehicle repair and replacement repairs and add to vehicle sell price. Dealers will bill this at full price internal dealer cost so internal departments get full profit. In most cases making vehicle way over its true market value and they will finance this expense within vehicle price. Certified means it has gone thru a basic maintenance repair. Such as a diagnostic on electrical and minor repairs to remove dash lights, oil change, new tires, battery replacement, transmission service, alignment, vehicle detail, and small cosmetic repairs. Remember at full price and added to selling price. Some certified vehicles do have major mechanical repairs. These most likely were traded in vehicle that the owner hide vehicle issues from selling dealer and had to be repaired to resell vehicle.
Inspection of vehicle is key to purchasing the most economical and dependable purchase.
Most used cars will need an expense to bring up to your standards and the average repair or replace is around $500. Such as new tires, repair seats or carpet, tune up, dash lights on, electrical issues, suspension issues, mechanical issues and cosmetic items needing replacing or items you desire to add.
First turn vehicle on as soon as you get keys and allow to run during inspection. This is to allow engine pressure and engine heat to build up. Why? I will explain later in another coming article to complete this series.
Inspect tires and check tread depth. Most tire manufactures require (for safety) to replace tires at or around 4/32 on tire depth. A tire depth gauge can be purchase for under $10 at most car auto parts store. Most tire depth readings on new tires in around 12/32-15/32 for trucks all terrain tires. Tire depth of anything as low as 5/32 is very unsafe. Tires with low depth will hydroplane over water easily and is very dangerous. Tires with low depth will not brake correctly nor react as designed. Inspect inner tire against inner rim for bulging or missing chunks of rubber. Missing chunks out of tires will eventually cause blowout or leak. Many used car wholesalers will hide damaged tires and install in rear and turn inside out. Average tire expense is $350-$550 for car and $500-$1000 for a truck. Prices are for factory wheels and tires. Always move new tires to rear for better turning control. Tire manufacturers will always recommend (if only two tires replaced) installing them on rear.
Inspect all glass. Chips on windshield can soon become cracks with heat. Cracks in windshields can obstruct vision and be unsafe. Some cracks will require replacement of windshield for inspection is some states. Inspect operation of mechanical or electrical operations for all windows including back glass wiper or defroster if equipped. Roll windows up and down mechanically/manually or electrically and listen for noises or odd movement of glass up and down. Use all mechanical/manual or electrically switches. Even the ones on the back doors. Check defrosters (when turned on)by exhaling and creating a fog over lines and should dissipate along line faster and be noticeably visible.
Inspect all dash gauges. Vehicle is still on during this inspection and now you can visually see if all gauges are working properly. The gas gauge will be hard to check if working properly. Turn on all interior lights and exterior lights and check signals for proper function. The two most important gauges that need to work. Temperature gauge should read no more than 195-205 degrees and the alternator average is 13.5-15 volts. Anything out of engine running temperature may be sign of engine cooling issues (radiator, hoses, engine restriction) issues. Anything out of range on volts may signify shorts or charging system failure (battery, alternator, ignition, cables). Turn on headlights and interior lights while vehicle is running. If the interior lights dim, dash lights dim, or headlamps dim while turning them off and on.... then we have an electrical issue (Draw, short in electrical system). We will cover these issues in more detail and how to inspect in future articles coming.
Inspect air condition fan switch in all modes. Push air condition cycle button on and off. Switch back and forth from heater to air condition. Switch between vents thru dash, back to defrost, back to floor, and frequently. Listen for noises and improper mode switching. Use a cooking thermometer if you do not have an automotive thermometer and place in center vent and average cooling is 48 degrees to 55 degrees. Anything out of this range would indicate restriction or mechanical issues with air condition system. We will cover these issues in more detail and how to inspect in future articles.
Inspect all seat function properly. Front go back and forth. Rear seats may fold. Inspect seatbelts are locking in all seats and unlocking with ease. When test driving brake hard and front seat belts will lock.
In todays article we only covered a small part of this used vehicle inspection. Basically interior, tires, and glass. It will take several more articles to cover the major inspection items needed prior to purchasing the right used vehicle.
In our next article we will cover: Suspension inspection, mechanical inspection, and test drive tips. No tools required and anyone can do.
Then soon after we will cover inspection and signs of collision damages to a possible purchase of a new used vehicle.
Thank you for your time and more to come!
Gideon2017
Thanks for this. I was actually searching for this information earlier today and this just happens to pop up on new :D Looking to purchase my first vehicle in cash. Financing and leasing is pointless in my opinion unless you have no liquidity or are comfortable with speculating on interest rates.
I am sure you will have success and I will pray that our Lord will bless you in your search! Paying cash is Ideal due to incurred debt. In few days I will have more tips on inspecting suspension (which is very costly and can be unsafe) and mechanical inspection tips. I do purchase and sell cars regularly ... for a hobby and have been involved in the auto business for years. Now self employed. Very successful in dealerships, independent, and self employed dealing with autos. A taste ... stick your finger up into rear muffler outlet. If it is wet, dark and oily ... do not buy this car. It needs to be dry almost gray in color. More details in next article. Be safe!
It's difficult to find good information through search engines in general (not just on used cars) due to watered down/simplified information, lack of expertise, and conflicts of interest. Thanks again, I will look out for the upcoming posts.
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