waves

in #life6 years ago

These are one of the most striking aspects of the sea, and its actions are especially noticeable on the coasts.
however, they are only externalized from a more general phenomenon that occurs in any medium, be it liquid, solid or gaseous, and that is subject to strict physical laws.

the variations in a medium in this case, the sea water are spread in their entirety in wave form. the waves can be stationary, when in them the oscillation always stays in the same point, or progressive, when in them a spatial and temporal variation takes place in each one of the points of the medium.

in the oceans all kinds of oscillations are known, from the typical progressive waves caused by the wind in the marine surface, to the regular variations caused by the tides.

the waves can reach heights of 20 or in exceptional cases up to 30 meters. In the open sea they are produced by the effect of the wind, giving rise to storms and storms. The generated waves are short, up to 600m in length in certain circumstances, although rarely exceeding 200m.su its propagation speed is variable, and usually do not exceed 100 km / h.