dunno, it is what it is... :) the good and the bad side of it. I am not judging one way or the other. It is something to be aware of and adjust accordingly. You can't judge a wave for throwing you about if you stand in its path. You can complain all you want but in the end you have 3 options:
a) refuse to budge and take the full force of the wave.
b) run or swim away
c) learn to surf and enjoy it
I definitely choose C but am aware I will need to start learning how to paddle...
dunno, it is what it is... :) the good and the bad side of it. I am not judging one way or the other. It is something to be aware of and adjust accordingly. You can't judge a wave for throwing you about if you stand in its path. You can complain all you want but in the end you have 3 options:
a) refuse to budge and take the full force of the wave.
b) run or swim away
c) learn to surf and enjoy it
I definitely choose C but am aware I will need to start learning how to paddle...
seems like a good set of steps! :)