Thanks for your comment.
I have been feeling it more often and it comes more natural now. I am struggling with the frontside snaps/carves and generating speed on smaller waves. I practiced for 20 minutes today on the carver focusing on snaps and pumping for speed. I noticed other advanced surfer can lift out of the water when generating speed ;) I gather this comes from lifting the arms above and in front of you?
Yes, I have a lot of respect for nature and inspires my architecture :) I was really close to a seal the other day, it was amazing, at first I got a fright.