When you're on the Camino, you don't have the option to just take a break for a week as I have with writing about it! Every morning it's up and out of the hostel by 8:00 at the latest. The first couple of days, I found this difficult, but as I got stronger and began to enjoy the trail more, it became first normal and then exciting, because every day is different and you never know what you're going to find.
Day 7 I got into trouble with food again, as I had on Day 2. My usual plan was to grab coffee and something for breakfast wherever I had slept, and then buy bread, cheese or meat, and fruit to carry with me and eat for the rest of the day. But on night 6 I had stayed at a remote lodge-style hotel and there were no shops of any kind around, or any food to buy at the bar.
A traditional Galician square house with a slate tile roof
Once again I tried the strategy of asking at a house to buy food, but again, an elderly lady waved me along from her window, telling me there was a place to buy food farther on. I thanked her, and when some time later I passed a sign saying that the bar was 4 kilometers away, my heart sank. I usually did about 3 kilometers in an hour, and I was already hungry.
But there was nothing to do but continue, so that's what I did. I reached a point where I had a long uphill climb. I started to feel weak and like my body's resources were almost used up. I really hope the bar is at the top of this hill, I thought, or else I'm really going to be in trouble. It was!
By that time, I was drenched and freezing. I took off my poncho and cap and bought myself an enormous Spanish ham sandwich, which I ate by the enormous fireplace. Then I bought supplies, including a liberal bar of chocolate, and headed back out onto the trail. My clothes were still wet, but that was the case most of the time. You just need to keep moving.
That evening I reached the town of Castroverde. There was a very nice municipal albergue there, and I actually had the entire place to myself. I went out and bought some zucchini soup and warmed it up in the kitchen, then sat around eating grapes and enjoying the heaters. Good thing there were heaters, because there were no blankets provided. I used my own blanket and my towel, but still struggled a bit with the cold in the night.
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Thanks for reading! See you again for Day 8 (hopefully less than a week from now). ;)
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