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RE: 3D Printing Some Calibration Cubes

What specifically are you having trouble understanding about Z-offset? Right now my problem is getting the height just right so it doesn't scrape or string all over the place. For some reason that's a problem for me with large models but small models come out good. I am narrowing my issue's possible cause down. The concept Z-offset in general I believe I understand.

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I am having trouble understanding what the compensation is for exactly, but I'm probably overthinking it.
It raises or lowers Z axis to compensate for the bed being too far or close to the nozzle?
My logic is just manually raise or lower the bed, but using the paper leveling method would make this difficult as well.
I also don't get how you're able to measure the distance of the nozzle from the bed. Do you stick your micrometer right down in there? I have pretty much the same micrometer, just never tried to actually measure the nozzle distance before lol.

Yeah I have been having the same issue with scraping and am printing a cube as we speak right now, I randomly threw a + 0.100 mm Z-offest in Fluidd dashboard and it's a bit better, now I'm playing around trying to get some macro photos of blobbing and other undesirable things. Mostly I just want to get some rad shots of the nozzle spitting out PLA but it's not an easy feat.

I was more busy today than I expected. I might have to post about a mod to my 3D printer tonight since that's already mostly been written and make that post about bed leveling and Z-offset tomorrow.

 3 years ago (edited) 

Thanks a bunch friend, no worries I am a bit busy myself tonight.
I use SuperSlicer and am planning to run some of the built in calibrations for retraction and flow. (I keep running the flow test and it calls for -20% reduction on extrusion multiplier and then the prints under extrude.. lol)
I've also found some nice resources for calibrating E-step for the extruder. I will share my findings of different methods for this calibration as well.

I printed this last night and adjusted flow rate +- 10% with not much deviation. This is one of my better prints so far: thingiverse design.


image.png

The lower level separation is indicative of underextrusion (I think)..
This is printed with 0.4 mm nozzle @ 0.12 LH.

EDIT: The first layer blobbing/pancaking is quite visible on this print, and is my logic for thinking it must be a matter of Z-offset not being set, and is consistent with every print at every layer height.

That looks pretty fantastic. Much better than my headless elephant.

I am slowly narrowing down the cause of my problem and the Z axis has been getting higher before failure. I think I've finally figured out my problem. I need to print two or three models during the next week to make sure.

scraped_3d_models.jpg

Hi @holovision, I seemed to have missed this comment for some reason, I need to work out a better system for keeping up with all the wonderful engagement I've been having here.

I've been inspecting your prints here very closely, and have noticed an anomaly that is similar with an issue I was having and trying to troubleshoot for a very long time. (like 3 months, the whole time I've had my printer) I only recently figured out what it was.

It was eccentric nuts, and I will explain what the anomaly was that made me think, over/under extrusion, bad extruder, bad bowden tube, bad leveling, improper Z-offset..

It was deviations in the layering. (and the scraping of course)

I even bought a new extruder trying to diagnose!

While we were chatting about the Z-offset, I started messing around with it, having better results, but then the anomaly resurfaced.

When those eccentric nuts wobble from improper placement, this is the result, as well as scraping.

Now that I've tightened up the eccentric nuts (which some were so bad they were not even touching the rails) all of those layering deviations have ceased, and any scraping I've incurred has been a result of over extrusion and shell thickness, but overall the problem is now fixed. ( and at the perfect time now that I'm starting a 3D printing blog.)

I cannot be sure that it's your eccentric nuts.
I suggest checking those first, (also check for gunk and obstructions on the rails)
and then if they are good, extruder and bowden tube.
I think your issue here might not be the Z-offset.
I hope it is just a matter of eccentric nuts.

Please let me know how things are working out.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll check on that.👍

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Hey @print3dpro, here is a little bit of BEER from @holovision for you. Enjoy it!

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I'll make a blog post later today that may help you understand some more, at least to the point I am at in understanding. Answering in a blog post would also make it easier for others to find the information.

Quick answer for the nozzle: The distance of the nozzle from the bed can be displayed on my printer's LCD screen in one of the menu options.

I wasn't able to get around to finishing my draft of the new magnetic bed mod on my 3D printer either. I don't have anything planned for tomorrow so I'll be able to make that Z-offset post.