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I use PLA and am able to get pots watertight, but not always..
My knowledge base on 3D printing is still what I would consider novice, but I know some basic calibration steps that help. Calibration of E-steps should get your extruder outputting the appropriate amount of filament, and to further calibrate I use those calibration cubes that can be measured with a micrometer for accuracy.

If all else fails, increasing the flow % in your slicing software might help.

I've heard there's certain types of paint sealers you can get that will work too but I've never tried them. I would however, perfectionism is not super important for pots, so using a sealer instead of wasting filament is a good choice, because filament can get expensive quickly, as I'm sure you know.

I successfully printed some robotic arms with actuating print in place gears. That took some serious calibration work, but machines with moving parts need constant tweaking.

What kind of printer do you use?

I'm on the Ender 3 V2.

Ender 3 v2 as well, using Cura. I have followed countless tutorials about getting my Z dialed in or this or that but it never prints consistently enough for me to just leave it be. Especially now, constant hot end jams from what I suspect to either be a dying nozzle cooling fan allowing heat creep, or my bowden tube is messed up after I trimmed it. You gotta be a miracle worker to get a 100% straight cut on these!

It took me about 8 months of troubleshooting and lots of upgrades to get this thing working correctly.
Maybe I'll put together a post on my 3d printing alt outlining all of the problems I found and the fixes that worked for me.
Everything from motherboard over-voltages to hot end modification, to bed plate spring and extruder upgrades. I spent maybe 300 dollars in upgrades alone, not to mention printing many upgrades too.
In some ways the Ender 3 V2 does a disservice to beginners, because one thing that we cannot be lacking in with an Ender is troubleshooting skills lol.

my bowden tube is messed up after I trimmed it. You gotta be a miracle worker to get a 100% straight cut on these!

I bought a bowden tube cutter for this, I bet there's printable versions utilizing a razor blade insert, never thought it when I purchased one lol.

I use cura too, and depending on which version mobo you have, you'll want to keep those travel moves under 50 mm/s, stock settings are like 150 and will cause voltage spikes in the shitty motherboard, causing further issues in the print. It probably preserves the motors to print slower speeds too.

This photo might put it into perspective a little.. lol

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