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RE: "Greener Grass" - A Surfing Meditation

in #surfing8 years ago

At my home break, the bulk of the surfers hang out on the reef, waiting for rights to come rolling into the cove.

However, when there is a decent south swell, good waves will break far outside from the south and deliver beautiful, long lefts that take me almost all the way to shore. I am goofy, and have been known to hover waiting for a wave like that for eons, while everyone else is living it up on the reef... ;)

But you're right; some days are naturally awesome, others are desert dry...

Thanks for reading and commenting! :D It's nice to chat with someone who "gets it." :D