"Greener Grass" - A Surfing Meditation

in #surfing7 years ago (edited)

"The grass is always greener over the septic tank."
- Erma Bombeck -

A strange phenomenon afflicts me.

If I describe it, you may recognize it too.

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The other guy always gets the best waves...
Image courtesy of Brandon Compagne and http://unsplash.com

I think of it as "The Grass is Always Greener,"

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It's epic, just a little north of me...
Image courtesy of Annie Spratt and http://unsplash.com

to use a common turn of phrase.

What do I mean by that?

I often feel as though the waves are breaking better just a little south, or a short paddle north, of my precise position. Sometimes, both south and north.

Looking to the south,

I see one guy after another take off and ride a good wave. I wait and wait, until finally, it looks like something good is headed my way.

But, no, it backs down, fades, and turns into a ripple.

At the sound of a breaking wave, I turn to the north just in time to see someone else make the drop and start cruising.

Why couldn't that have been me?

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I can't quite get there in time.
Image courtesy of Lukas Budimaier and http://unsplash.com

The funny thing is, when I decide to head south, or when I move north, it’s almost as though a "cone of silence" follows me. As soon as I get to where the last great wave broke, good waves start breaking right on the spot I just left!

I've often said to fellow surfers: "Hey, I know two places where the waves break absolutely the best."

When they ask me where, I'm happy to tell them:

"The place I can't quite get to, and the place I just left."

Oh, well,

with a sport as great as surfing, what do I have to complain about?


~FIN~


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When my neighbour divorced his wife and married some young girl , it only took a couple of years and the new one looked just like the old one! Probably got exactly what he deserved?

So sad...

I've found that women, like wine, improve with age... ;)

Well said! But there are limitations to this thought!
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But not always man, i tell you! I have been tempted to go to other companies leaving the place I work but then i think that from here people over there look like they living life and it may not be the case! But Here I am wrong and @lakshmi is also wrong! I have been watering the grass here and it aint getting no greener and now i see a fence being built at the place where i used to see greener grass!
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I hear you...

Yeah, there are times you just have to move in order to make any progress...

Simple solution, when u drop down to paddle to next spot, stop yourself and then move out a little bit bc the set wave is coming thru. Works every time-- did it today in north Jersey.

Love the first photo looks great, the only thing missing is the dolphin swimming through the wave, cheers thanks for sharing.

Yeah, that looks like an awesome wave. Wish I had been there! ;)

I have seen dolphins surfing inside waves. Sadly, I did not have a camera with me at the time!

OMG I can relate to this... but at the same time I can be stubborn as hell and wait in one spot for almost an hour waiting for the set wave i saw break there earlier...and then when i finally decide that it's not happening and paddle away it comes...AAaarggh...lol
But that is surfing... some days everything clicks and you're a wave magnet and other days you can't catch a break (pun intended)!

At my home break, the bulk of the surfers hang out on the reef, waiting for rights to come rolling into the cove.

However, when there is a decent south swell, good waves will break far outside from the south and deliver beautiful, long lefts that take me almost all the way to shore. I am goofy, and have been known to hover waiting for a wave like that for eons, while everyone else is living it up on the reef... ;)

But you're right; some days are naturally awesome, others are desert dry...

Thanks for reading and commenting! :D It's nice to chat with someone who "gets it." :D

Think is a lot mindset bro, when you think something its a lot more likly to happen, kinda like placebo ,

I agree... It's important to maintain a good attitude.

The worst day out surfing is better than most anything else anyway! :D

Thanks for your comment.

I find sometimes that if I ignore the other breaks and just study this one it takes my mind back to why I came out here...relax... After all, searching for a spot, this one was the best choice...confidence... Eventually that big green shoulder will lift me...dig...

Yes indeed. In the surfing game, patience and persistence pay off big time sometimes. :D

it seems we are on the same green wavelength tonight :)

Its because the waves are scared of you lol :)

Hahahahahahahahaha!!!! LOLOLOLOL!!!!

Now I'm smiling. If only that were true... ;)

That's how it looks haha

In your case, the grass is greener on the other side because you interpret it as greener and you end up not waiting for the grass below you to start growing to be the greener one :P

Thanks for your comments! :)

Well just imagine, while you're looking at another surfer thinking he got the best wave, he may be looking at you a few minutes later thinking the very same thing!

Very true, indeed! Been there, done that... ;)