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RE: "Greener Grass" - A Surfing Meditation

in #surfing7 years ago

OMG I can relate to this... but at the same time I can be stubborn as hell and wait in one spot for almost an hour waiting for the set wave i saw break there earlier...and then when i finally decide that it's not happening and paddle away it comes...AAaarggh...lol
But that is surfing... some days everything clicks and you're a wave magnet and other days you can't catch a break (pun intended)!

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At my home break, the bulk of the surfers hang out on the reef, waiting for rights to come rolling into the cove.

However, when there is a decent south swell, good waves will break far outside from the south and deliver beautiful, long lefts that take me almost all the way to shore. I am goofy, and have been known to hover waiting for a wave like that for eons, while everyone else is living it up on the reef... ;)

But you're right; some days are naturally awesome, others are desert dry...

Thanks for reading and commenting! :D It's nice to chat with someone who "gets it." :D