Going cheap on the rich man's island... Ilha Grande, Brazil

in #travel7 years ago (edited)

Ilha Grande, the rich man’s island. Afraid that I was going to run into the Brazilian answer to Cancún* I almost entirely swiped it off the travel trail… but thank the devil I didn’t! True, this is not the undiscovered gem tucked away from mass tourism, neither the rustic Robinson Crusoe get-away where you can disconnect (if only from wi-fi) and reload… but I yet have to meet the first person, be it the seasoned bold backpacker or the typical tourism-consumer, that did not have a good time here.            

* I finish that place in this blog.               

There’s simply something for everyone. Outdoor-enthusiast? Well, what about scuba-diving, jetskiing, snorkeling, sailing, trekking or surfing? More a tanning-my-ass-on-a-blistering-white-sandy-beach-kind-of-type? There are about a 100 beaches here, that’ll do? There’s nightlife, there’s live music, there’s fine dining… There are lakes, waterfalls and the Atlantic… There are historic landmarks, ancient ruins and even an Ecomuseum.    

If you manage to be bored here, I must break it to you: then you’re simply a brain-numbing boring human-being and nothing will save you.   


I settled with hiking, my true passion that flourishes every time I hit the travel path.         

And in Ilha Grande I didn’t have one, but two guides! Couchsurfer Daniel, in whose house I was being lodged, as well as his muscular tattooed roommate Santiago, who both were quite the hiking aficionados themselves… are at least for that moment, to accompany me on my adventures. #1 gladly took a break from his loaded work schedule to take me down to Cachoeira Feiticeira, one of the many waterfalls this lush and fertile island is home to.            

While finding our way over the innumerable trails lingering through the overwhelming fauna I noticed the aqueduct and abandoned hospital-ruins we passed by. Ilha Grande used to function as a quarantine-zone for leper patients and later on as a top-security prison for the most dangerous criminals in Brazil, and the remains are to be caught sight of until the day of today. Nature and history, what did I tell you?        

From cachoeira to capoeira. Inescapable if you’re in Brazil. When I was a young student I shortly dated a Brazilian-blend delicacy who happened to be a capoeira-teacher, and presumably the only reason I kept on signing up for follow-up-dates was that utterly divine body that smiled (screamed!) at me every time he took his clothes off. Those abs, those arms, those legs and (oh boy) that ass, capoeira did that to him. With these happy memories in my mind I aggressively nodded when Daniel asked me to watch his class, hoping to be the perv once again. None of that though, I got a way more varied presentation: from kids to babyboomers, from black to mocha to white, from mystic afro to blonde curls and blue eyes… Brazil was dancing for me in all its colors!    

Capoeira is for everyone. This country is for everyone. There’s a reason why a Brazilian passport is the most wanted in the underworld: everyone can be Brazilian, no matter what you look like. I realized this is why I love this nation… races have blended, boundaries faded and the mix of it all is embraced in its entire intensity.        

And I love Brazil for its nature, it’s like an inexhaustible source of enjoyment and it was all mine to explore, conquer and get deliciously lost in. Or, if you’re the kind of type that actually get lost quite often, you can just accept the guidance of a local: Santiago was more than happy to show me ‘his’ Lopes Mendes beach, the most famous one on the island.            

I understand why, that broad endless strip of powder white is hard to resist for the masses.            

I also wasn’t insensitive for the undeniable attraction of this virgin piece of scenery, but truth told, those little tucked away beaches like Paloma were the ones truly catching my attention. If you feel like an undisturbed beach get-away, far out of reach of screaming Americans or drunken Europeans, forget about Abraão and have a look in these little slices of heaven I just mentioned.        

After a satisfying and sweaty walk Santiago had yet another great idea: Let’s just go back by boat, his treat… Life is a gift, ladies and gentlemen, oh man it is!         

After all that hiking we deserved some relaxation, Santiago said once the sun burnt me out of my bed again. I couldn’t agree more. Well, good thing that he knows literally everyone on the island, so borrowing some snorkel gear for free wouldn’t be a problem.         

Visibility, however, appeared to be. Well, good thing I didn’t already book a scuba-dive to only conclude once situated at the bottom of the ocean that I in fact can't see shit. Through the floating sand I did wave at some blurry fishes though, and I have some other observation that might interest you: sea urchins, lots of them. And you know how many spikes an average sea urchin has? Over a 100. And they have to be removed one by one if you step in one. So just do like I did: Swim, dry in the sun again – repeat! And stay away from those damn rocks.        

Wow, I could get used to this. So I stepped out. If you’re drenched too much into your comfort zone stimulation fades away.    


But I did it! I did Ilha Grande on a budget. Besides the boattrip to get here and the necessary açaí I didn’t spend a dime. You can get here by taking the the cheap ‘n slow daily ferry service instead of a pricy speedboat… I even went as far as trying to hitch a ride at the fishermen’s boat, which apparently is only an option at around 5/6AM in the morning when they sail out (but hell, they’ll take you, especially if you’re a woman – the fights about whose boat I would go with were still going on when I was already leaving the harbor).         

Also, the tourist office will try to make you believe those speedboat prices are fixed, but you can easily get 50% off with a wink and a smile (tried and confirmed). As logically it’s quite expensive to get a varied supply of food on the island I saved costs by bringing along some groceries from harbor town Angra dos Reis, so I could always cook my own meals.         

Tours have a price, but hiking and swimming (the best you can do here) are as free as a bird. And who said you have to pay for drinks to listen to the live music being performed at the beach bars? There are no sound barriers installed, so just bring a bottle of vodka and slam a coconut out of the tree to mix it with and swing along on the beach… nothing better than slowly getting drunk on this paradise of green humid mountains where time stands still somehow.        

If you want a party, you should be the one hanging up the garlands.    

The pleasure is within you.      

Until we meet. 

www.budgetbucketlist.com

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wow, such a beautiful place :)

It's not so far from where you live right haha, you should give it a go ;)

lol i live in morocco, it's faaar lol

This post received a 1.3% upvote from @randowhale thanks to @alienposts! For more information, click here!

This post received a 1.4% upvote from @randowhale thanks to @alienposts! For more information, click here!

What an adventure :) I hope to one day be able to travel the world, but I spend too much time working :(

Stop working and hoping, just grab your bags and go! That's how I did it. Don't worry about the money, life will work itself out somehow.

Thanks for the budget travel tips. Great Pics. Looks so beautiful. Glad you had a great time. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for sharing your feedback Deborah, hope you can enjoy this place one time as much as I did!

100 beaches!!! MY LIFESTYLE:)


This is the view I get this summer^

Wow, you have such a shitty life ;) where is it? I'm still hanging out in Brazil right now, where about are you?

Its the beautiful Florida keys!
Haha and It is hard. Sometimes I have to get up and walk to fridge for a new beer;)

Oh man! I hope you survive

excellent photography keep it up

Glad you enjoyed, thanks for commenting ;)

Beautiful photos

I went to "ilha grande", beautiful island! i did it cheaper too, using a tent, I did the all around trekking including "pico do papagaio" top of the island in 15 days, almost 115km, you can do it in 3 days or less but the better way is do it slowly. amazing places you have been visited, also uruguay. nice photography! greetings

Wow I'm so happy you also grabbed that opportunity, what a place right? You could camp there?? I heard from some trekkers that they could only pitch it at campsites as it's a protected reserve. I couchsurfed this time, but would have camped otherwise indeed. Happy traveling my friend!

I was able to camp, because I went in the off-season, and I think the island had even more magic.

Fantastic post. (As always)

How long were you there?

So glad you enjoyed it. I stayed about 5 days, way too short I know. I could stay for a month and still enjoy myself I guess. But there's a whole planet to discover, so you have to keep on going right?

Nice pictures, I’m following you now.

Thanks a lot for your support, glad you liked them!

That place looks and sounds amazing!

It for sure is! Hope you can go there one day :)

I'm aiming to tick off the WHOLE WORLD! Hahaha

Great post! I love when people get to love my "hometown" I´ve been living in Abraão, Ilha Grande for the last 4 years, trust me, never going back to the city! Haha, great you met Santiago one of the Island musicians.

Great photos! The beach does look beautiful.

There's not much to complain indeed ;)

Brazil the land of bikinis and booty

That's an interpretation

feeling it sister ;)

u're lucky enjoy ur time :*

Sometimes you have to grab luck by the balls and claim it ;)

haha may be xD

What a beautiful reality! The pics on this post make me wish that I could just jump in them and partake. Thanks for exposing this gem of a place! This will be on my bucket list to visit! LOL!

Wise choice my friend! This is for sure a must-go on the list

Really enjoyed the pictures. Seems like a place I want to go to. So much to see! How much did you spend on the trip if you dont mind me asking?

Maybe 25 bucks in 5 days

No fucking way! How much were the tickets?

Amazing photos, I love your blog. If you could check out mine, I would really appreciate it! :)

Hey, Thanks Mary! I will have a look!

I've received your message on the chat and got back to you there. I look forward to read this post. Take care!

Thanks I will have a look when my internet is a bit better! Safe travels!

Great pics, great post and great tips.

You're welcome, thanks for commenting! Have a great day

This was an interesting article with nice pictures! Looking forward to more from you!

whoaaaa...
what place is it???
amazing ,
please followme back dear
thank you

Nice post !!! Upvot , follow and reesteemt ;-)

Greez bluchr

Looks lovely. Great photos

Nice job @budgetbucketlist! Your travels and photos are pleasing to me! Enjoy with me the summer in Ukraine!

Hi @budgetbucketlist Just found your blog by accident :) Looking good and will enjoy your travel stories while preparing for ours. Have fun travelling and be safe fellow dutchie :)

Thanks for sharing. I've lived in Paraty for two years and still haven't visited Ilha Grande!

I´m living in Ilha Grande for 4 years and still haven´t visited Paraty!

Ha ha ha! OMG - you know what this means?? Provided you're not a psycho murderer (as most Brazilians think most people are, he he), we should host each other to facilitate visits. Although saying that I don't plan to visit Iha Grande until my bloody PhD is bloody done.

haha Yeah! I get your point, been there too..
Certainly, are you one of the few people that are into permaculture there? if so, that´s super interesting!

Well I went to the permaculture school that was in Cambury last year, and I've been taking part in agroecological mutirões and visited some projects, taken part in juçara harvests and made links with people in the scene. My PhD is about the wild food plant scene so that's been a big part of the community.

Nice travel blog you got there.
I am jelly now! ;D