I have not had a drink for 4 days. Im trying to last a week as a pact I made with my surfing bro - we both hit the booze way too hard for the 1st 3 nights at Cimaja and we decided to try this no drinking thing that I read about somewhere. Sounds dumb and have to be honest with you folks - it doesn't feel great. My buddy is drinking coffee and I'm drinking coca cola - surely those two alternatives are worse than beer! Im surfing awesome waves and pushing my comfort zone.
This is a pic from last time I was here - it's me three years ago and I have used it before so forgive me....
The swell here is a solid 6 - 8 feet with the occasional bigger set rolling thru. Its a reef break with a good 3 - 400m paddle from the beach so entry and exit twice a day is already 1.5km of paddling. My arms ache and my lower back aches. I'm sunburned and am dehydrated most of the time. And I can't have a beer. Shit! Loving Life! Here's a couple of pics (not of me), but shows the wave very nicely. I don't have a guy taking pics on the beach yet but I think my buddy will be here in a few days with camera.
At the top of the reef there is another entry option where you can try your luck on a low tide.Basically you wait for a lull in the swell then gingerly rush across the exposed reef, dive into the sea and paddle like hell out of the break zone. Here's my bro giving a shot yesterday afternoon as a storm was building. I elected to stay on the beach and watch - I was too exhausted from the morning session.
We are staying a very cool little homestay called Widi's run by a beautiful local family. These homestay options are found all over Indonesia and for my money this is hands down the best way to travel around the country. The families that open their homes to visitors and provide wonderful home cooking are definitely deserving of the tourist dollar! We have stayed at this family's home on both of our last trips and more than happy to stay again this time round. the food is good and plenty of it and there is free-flow tea, coffee and water. I have set up a little work station in the room. How about that green paint!
And so life continues. I wake up and drink Indo coffee, eat fruit, surf for 2 - 3 hours. Then work in the nauseating green room and repeat in the afternoon. I'm eating like a king and burning calories like nobody's business. I'm surfing the most beautiful waves and there is nobody out except me and me bro. Its a dream!
I'm Jobiker and I didn't have a beer in four days! Peace!