The Good, Bad and the Ugly of Marseille

in Pinmapple2 years ago

Marseille is the oldest and second largest city in France and the next destination that I'm going to talk about in this little travel blog that I have going on.

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View of Notre Dame Cathedral from Train Station

It's located in the southern part of the country along the coast of the Mediterranean sea within the Gulf of Lion.

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It's situated in the Provence Côte d'Azur region, which means that it is technically part of the French Riviera. However I personally wouldn't consider it to be a part of that destination hot spot.

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It just doesn't have the same sort of romanticism or vibe as many of the other towns and cities that are located in that part of the country.

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To be honest, neither I nor my wife were all that thrilled by the city and I would say that there are many more, much better places to visit if you're traveling to France and have limited time in the country.

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Maybe it was because the weather was poor and the skies were cloudy and overcast, but the city was definitely lacking in appeal for us.

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Many parts were run down or just very blah and I've come to learn that the city has a very large divide between the rich and poor which may explain some things.

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It is estimated that 40-50% of it residents live below the poverty line.

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We've been to a lot of places in France at this point and we have never at any point felt unsafe during our time here, day or night.

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But in Marseille we definitely had vibes of not wanting to be caught out in certain neighborhoods after dark.

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Some areas were somewhat dirty feeling and others were all out sketchy.

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It was the first time we had ever felt that way really, other than one other city somewhat near our home that is a real shit hole.

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But that spot isn't a tourist destination either, so in my opinion it doesn't really count.

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Nothing happened in Marseille mind you, and we really enjoyed our time there, it was all just a feeling we had.

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Dog in Baby Bjorn

Well actually there was one odd thing. It was dark out and we were walking back to our hotel after dinner and a young man about our age approached us and asked if we had any hand sanitizer.

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"Hand sanitizer???...No sorry. We aren't carrying any at the moment."

He might have seen that our guards were up or something because he responded kindly "It's no problem. There's no problem."

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The gears were seriously turning in my head as we walked away though. "Hand sanitizer? Why would he want hand sanitzer at 9pm when it's dark and all of the shops are closed?"

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I was like Jennifer Lawrence's character in Don't Look Up when she couldn't let go of the fact that the general had charged them money for the free snacks.

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"Hey honey, what do you think he wanted that Hand sanitizer for? Do you think he wanted to get drunk off of it? I heard that's a thing that some folks do."

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Mirror Ceiling at Old Harbor

She replied: "I really don't want to think about what he wanted it for. Actually, I'd rather not talk about it at all."

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Me not letting it go: "Maybe he just went to the washroom outside somewhere and really wanted to wash his hands? Or maybe it was to clean and sanitize a needle or something?"

She gave me that look like, please stop talking about it.

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20 minutes went by. "Maybe he was using it as an excuse to get close to us so he could try and rob us or something? Or like, put a knife in my rib cage or something?" Often times my mind goes dark pretty quickly.

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We went hiking the next day and I think I ruminated on it for a solid hour or so.

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"Hand sanitizer!? At night...from a stranger. Maybe he picked something off the ground that he regretted immediately...? No it had to be that he wanted to drink it or clean a needle.... but surely he wouldn't drink it or lick it out of his hands in front of us... Would he?"

It went on that way for quite some time. Actually I'm still thinking about it now, weeks later. But anyhoo back to the city.

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So in researching Marseille I stumbled upon some pretty interesting information about the city's shady past, so I've decided to lean in a little on the bad.

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Apparently the city is currently working hard to change its persona but some remnants of a more violent history may still be seen and felt there to this day.

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Of course I didn't know any of this before our visit and to be honest, I probably would have just avoided it if I had. But anyway, let's take a look at some of the shady aspects of Marseille.

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"They're watching us. Be cool. Everybody act natural."

The city has exceptionally high crime rates compared to the rest of the country, a large drug problem, increased gang related violence and one of the highest murder rates in all of Europe.

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But before you get scared over Marseille I should mention that murder rates are high by European standards but still nothing compared to some cities in North America.

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For instance, Marseille had a murder rate of 2.7 homincides per 100 thousand people in 2012-2015 whereas Chicago had a rate of 28.

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Baltimore's rate was 50 at that same time according to the Guardian newspaper, so "high crime" is very much a relative concept here.

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But then again, to put the drug related problems into perspective, one source that I read stated that the city supplied 85% of the United States heroine supply at one point and a judge who identified the culprits of the heroin's production ended up getting murdered for it.

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The event, was actually the catalysts that brought change to the city.

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At the time most of the heroin was produced in the Le Panier district, which brings us to probably the most interesting spot to see in the city.

Le Panier


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Le Panier is located close to the old harbor and is a very old part of the city.

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It was once a sort of ghetto with a lot of drug and gang related crime taking place there but a lot had changed in the district over the last few years.

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The neighborhood is currently going through a sort of re-branding phase and is slowly becoming gentrified. At this moment it now has a very "hipster" and trendy sort of vibe about it.

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It feels young and hip and artsy.

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It has a lot of cool shops and unique little restaurants as well, and a ton of really cool street art.

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Actually, spray paint is literally everywhere throughout the neighborhood...

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even on the plants - which was a bit weird in my opinion and probably a bit too far.

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There were also a ton of tags on practically every corner and every wall there.

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Normally I'd say that tags are ugly and dirty looking but they actually work in the district and add to its overall character.

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They're like an additional pop of color here and there. Or something to that effect.

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I'd say that Le Panier was our favorite spot in the city to see really, though I would still recommend getting out of there by nightfall.

Vieux Port


Another decent spot to hang around in is the old harbor.

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In the center are all of the boats and sailboats and around the perimeter are a large assortment of nice cafes and bars.

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The area is bustling with people during the day and some people even sell live fish that they caught, in a make-shift open air market along the edge of the water. That was interesting to see and quite different.

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On the last day of our visit we came out of a bar and were walking through the harbor towards the train station and we couldn't believe how many police officers we saw.

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There were at least 20 vans with 4-6 officers in each all parked in the center of the busy street.

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I figured that the city was hosting a football game that day and they were getting prepared to put an end to any roudy celebrations. I confirmed later that this was exactly the case.

Food


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Seafood is popular in Marseille but one specialty dish to try is called Bouillabaisse. It's a fish chowder that incorporates 3-5 different types of fish and seafood. I had it at a fish restaurant and thought that it was quite good. I also had oysters for the first time in France as an appetizer and those were also pretty excellent.

My Takeaway


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We actually really enjoyed Marseille and were glad that we went there. We had fun in the Le Panier district and didn't feel unsafe at any point during our stay. That being said I wouldn't recommend wandering the city at night and would suggest being aware of the people and your surroundings at all times if you do happen to visit. Overall, I think that the city can be skipped though and would suggest many other locations to visit in area instead of Marseille.

Well thats it for now. Until next time, thanks for stopping by.

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Lol, love the dog in the Baby Bjorn!!

Marseille we definitely had vibes of not wanting to be caught out in certain neighborhoods after dark.

I had that feeling when traveling through Naples. I was like, yeek, get me out of here!

That's funny because when I was researching cities with high crime rates in Europe Naples ranked high on the list. They give you a certain vibe don't they?

Yeah, it's the dirty streets and general poor upkeep. You can even feel the vibe from the people's. It's always a relief to get out!

Yeah definitely. From what I read Marseille is quite an impoverished city so I wonder if it's the same with Naples. High poverty typically leads to higher rates of crime.

Excellent coverage!
The 2 important missing points:
The football Club: l'Olympique de Marseille
https://www.om.fr/fr
The fabulous Calanques de Marseille
https://www.marseille-tourisme.com/decouvrez-marseille/calanques-plages-et-nature/les-calanques-de-marseille/

We actually did the Calanques hike on day two of our visit but I think that warrants it's own post. It is an amazing spot indeed, probably one of the best hikes we've done in France. Top 5 for sure.

Haha, I think you'll never forget that hands sanitizer :)
I have been there for a few hours decades ago but I can confirm that some neighborhoods are definitely not for tourists (at least back then). I don't know if you have read the Marseilles Trilogy by Jean-Claude Izzo but back then it was like a Bible for my friends and myself. We were young and considered ourselves tough and fearless. So we not only didn't avoid the "bad" neighborhoods but we were looking for them. It was where the plot of the novel was happening and we wanted to have a first hand experience. Nothing tragic happened mostly because at some point, we were able to identify the danger and we were smart enough to lower our eyes and get the hell out of there as soon as possible 😥

Great post by the way 😊

No the hand sanitizer story will stick with me for a while I think 😂

The book series sounds interesting and now that you pointed out your experience I totally believe that it was quite bad some years ago. I didn't post about it because I was unsure about the truth of it, but one site I read online said that some areas in the city are "no go" zones even for police. It said that locals monitor who comes and goes from the neighborhood and that people openly walk around with AK 47's hahaha. It sounded too far fetched to mention but...maybe there's is some truth to it from back in the day???

Thanks for sharing your experience of the city.

I didn't see any guns but probably there were many!
As I said nothing tragic actually happened but it was a good shake and a useful realisation that we are not as badass as we liked to believe :)
Your post reminded me all that and I just felt like sharing!
Thank you for listening.

For sure, everyone is a badass until they're life is actually threatened haha I've definitely been there too when I was younger. When you actually end up in a bad situation though it's usually like "why the heck did i put myself into this situation!?!" 😆

Very nice presentation..personally I like ports and dirt so perhaps will have it in my radar..not as nice as Bordeaux or Lyon though I guess...
I think that this guy asking for sanitizer wanted to make a contact for...you know😉... don't forget you are at one of the biggest ports...what is more usual than... that?
My apologies if you think I am provocative...thank you for this post - I really enjoyed it!

You definitely can't compare Marseille and Bordeaux. Bordeaux was a beautiful city in my opinion with a much different vibe.

Haha 😆 you might be right about that guy's intentions

🤷‍♂️

My sister was studying oenology in Bordeaux and we had the chance to visit some vineyards which is an amazing experience 🥂... France is very beautiful... and big! So many places to be!!!

That's awesome that you got to see some vineyards. It's definitely a famous wine region.

Yeah France is a big country by European standards. There are a lot of different places to see, many of which are very different from each other.

I guess Marseille is one of the best places to try seafood in France. Your hand sanitizer encounter with the guy in the alley is unsettling. For some reason, the graffiti on the walls reminded me of certain scenes from the Netflix TV Mystery French Drama called Gone for Good (Disparu à jamais). Although the TV series was filmed in Nice, France, there were certain areas in the film that brought back the same unsafe vibe you have described in your post.

I have never been to Marseille but I always had a similar impression. Thanks for confirming my initial thought.

Marseille is one of the best places to try seafood in France

I have heard that as well. The little that I had was good.
I haven't seen that show. Nice might have some bad areas like any major city but I didn't get the same vibes as I did with Marseille. I'd say you could skip Marseille and not really miss out on anything. There are much better places in Provence and much better along the Riviera.

Will definitely keep that in mind and if for some reason I land there, will keep my guards up. We really enjoyed the show, lots of plot twists.

had vibes of not wanting to be caught out in certain neighborhoods after dark

Agree 100%! A few years ago I accidentally drove into the wrong neighborhood, which was explained to me in no uncertain terms by means of rocks thrown at my car by a small mob. In plain daylight, not at night. What a shithole of a city!

Without getting into details, it was the same crowd I once stumbled into at the Porte de Clignancourt in Paris, a manif in progress. The difference: Within a few minutes, a dozen CRS with submachine guns showed up, and the mofos ran for their lives. In Marseille, I had to do the running myself. How times have changed...

Wow that does not sound like a pleasant experience and during the day too. Crazy! We didn't experience anything like that but I could see it happening in some areas in the city. My understanding is that it's trying to clean its act up these days but I don't think it's there yet. High crime and poverty tend to go hand in hand and Marseille has very high poverty rates even still.

It's been trying to clean up its act for a hundred years. I'm not holding my breath. If we were to discuss it further, we would very quickly get into territories where the zeitgeist would kick us in the ass. Better to look the other way.

Yeah it has a long way to go for sure and I know what you mean lol 😅

That mirror ceiling was cool to take that photo. You also found graffiti, plenty of them :))

But this photo made me LOL:

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😂😂😂

Haha yeah that was a funny sign. Kind of makes for an ugly mermaid lol

yes, I see 😂

but, no mermaid should be called ugly :D

you should not play with this, as you don't know their powers hahha 🧜‍♀️🧜‍♀️

That is true 😅😂

😂😂

it seems a city of contrasts, Like you I think the big buildings seem soulless and far too austere, the back streets for me are more inviting and I love the street art.

PS. have you got any hand sanitiser?
😂

Haha yeah the hand sanitizer. We usually do carry some but not this time for some reason. Such a weird thing to ask a stranger for though lol.

yeah very original. makes a change from "can you spare some change"

You have a good eye for photography, I hope you know that. I love all your travel blogs and the nice photos you take! Thanks for all info you shared with us in this post. I'm sure they are helpful for many. If I'll travel to France, definetely I'll be back to your blog!

Btw, this photo is soo fun and cute! 😆

I'm glad they are helpful. Basically though, I'd say to avoid Marseille and check out some of the better locations.

Glad you liked the photos 👍 😁

Ohhh man! How couldn't I? They are amazing, every single time!

Haha thanks. I appreciate it 🙂

Great post. I enjoyed your stories and info throughout. I will take your advice and go to some of the other places in Southern France that you have already blogged about.

Yeah it's just not really worth it compared to other cities and places.

What a nice post about a city I have to visit. Thanks for all the views.

I love the one with the dog in the baby bjorn

Glad you liked the photos 🙂

Marseille seems like that kind of place where you can go for a chill journey through the city. I like that.

Yes during the day it's like that in most places. Maybe not so much at night or in some areas of the city. Lol

Hey! I visited Marseille in August 2021 and I agree with you.

The city has different faces but is a little bit dangerous.

Is a beautiful city but you have to be careful and also ready for urban hiking 😂

Yeah I agree for sure. It's mostly good but you always have to be careful.

Nice article
@tipu curate

Thanks for the support! 😁

The city seems very neat and clean.
Paris is also very infamous for its pickpocketing and night time crimes.

But, yes always be wary of surroundings, ask locals about safe areas.

I enjoyed the pictures, feels like you took us on a virtual journey of the city.

I've never felt unsafe in Paris at all, even at night when I've been there but any large city is going to have its areas where you have to be on your guard. Marseille was on another level in that regard though.

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Looking through those photos make me to realize that Marseille is a beautiful city for one to visit,

It was a nice moment to spend on this blog.

Glad you liked the photos 👍

Great photos and looks like a nice trip! The only city I ever felt slightly unwelcome was Genova in Italy. It was a wedding afterparty at night and it just felt a little strange.

Yeah it happens in some larger cities for sure. Everyone of them tends to have its rougher neighborhoods lol

Very captivating your post , the pictures are amazing, I have not visited this part of France before, just last week I was in Paris, another iconic place for France.

Well you can probably skip Marseille. You aren't missing much

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Woo son hermosas fotografias , que bonito paisaje. que bueno que lo hayas disfrutado

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Oh my.. I want to visit this place someday.. Too romantic to see 😁

Well, just be careful at night then