A large amount of my self-tailored clothing consists of worn pieces, which I mostly unravel and re-cut to make trousers, skirts and dresses. I have different reasons why I came to this activity. Mostly, I do it because there is hardly anything more satisfying than being in charge of a process from start to finish. From the design, to the cutting, problem solving and finally the sewing of the individual pieces into a whole.
I'm interested in the fashion of past times and the more I look into it, the clearer it becomes that the fashion designers of their respective eras got ideas from previous times.
The fashion of the 1920s
became famous because of its break with the Victorian dressing habits of women, with the banishing of corsets, with the boxiness and straightforwardness of the Bauhaus style, which found its way into architecture around the same time and very probably had an influence on the fashion designers of the day, who also intended to herald the dawn of a new era in clothing.
Artist: Tamara de Lempicka / Le turban vert (1930) - photographed from a postcard I purchased / Publisher L. Däbritz, Munich/ ART H. Hilscher
Away from emphasising the figure, towards an unrestricted mobility of the body. Thus, the design elements with their right angles appeared like a reflection of the strengthening architectural styles, without frills, representative of modernity and determination.
the 1900s photo-source
Interpretation of Harlem Jazz I by Winold Reiss (ca.1920) pic source
The gained leg and freedom of movement of the body then also made it possible to observe frenetic dancers. The Charleston is probably the most known dance. We remember seeing this referred to as the roaring 20s. With jazz and Big Band sounds as the accompanying music. Series like Downton Abbey placed great emphasis on the historically accurate appearances of the ladies in the wealthy homes and the illustration of the change in fashion in the generations of women is very successful here in the cinematic presentation. Clothing has always been an occasion to make statements. Also, either to bow to the fashion dictates or not. At all times there is a certain uniformity, even if one believes to be the master of one's own wardrobe. But since there is basically nothing new in the world that hasn't been there before, there is currently a great love of mixing styles and eras. However, fashion is of course subject to the contours of the human body; legs, torso and arms have to fit into the clothes and are adapted to the climatic conditions. Men have not yet completely emancipated themselves from the dictate of trousers. The sight of made-up men is still more offensive today than it was, for example, in the times of the Baroque in the aristocratic houses, where the gentlemen appeared in equally pompous frilly skirts as the ladies. It was made from a pair of pleated men's trousers (the grey-green fabric) and a black skirt that no longer fit me. I completely unravelled both pieces. Unfortunately, I had already taken the skirt as a spare part for another project and made a diagonal cut, which now forced me to integrate this as a design element in the dress. I would have preferred straight lines, but you have to work with what you have, don't you?
"Kleider machen Leute"
Some photos I shot in the making processToday I am presenting a dress that I made in the style of the 1920s.
I have a preference for halter tops because they show the shoulders, in my case I welcome it because I walk through the world with nice shoulders and therefore like to emphasise them. It's different with the rest of the body, I cover what I want to show off less.
My dressmaker's dummy doesn't come very close to my figure, despite the adjustment options, which, if you really think about it, only allow a superficial alignment, for the dummy has no belly, a tiny bust, but a veritable duck's arse, which I personally find exaggerated. That's why the dress draped over it doesn't fall the way it does on my body. Probably dressmaker's dummies also go with the fashion.
Here I experimented again with the accessories shown above, this time as waist and hip belts. You can see that the neck holder strip is not yet sewn on but still pinned in place. I deliberately put this part at the end to be able to correct any fitting problems. I notice with amateurs, like myself, that the seamstresses finish sewing their dresses and only find out afterwards that they don't fit. The work of unpicking everything is really not something you want to do.
Making off
I used the left over waistband from the skirt for the neck strip. This cost me some effort, as the curve of the neck turns out much smaller than that of the hip, and the whole piece had to be ironed into shape and shortened. The fabric didn't want to behave at all as I had planned and I used what is called bias tape for the inside part, which can be stretched into shape because of the 45 degree angle at which it is cut.
The entire holding part I sewed on by hand,
because the machine seam would have been guaranteed to fail me and I lack the practice to make precise straight seams at millimeter intervals from the edge of the fabric.
In the back of the dress
I left a slit open to be able to slip into the dress at all. Had I not created and sewn a halter top earlier in the summer, I probably would have been less confident in realizing the idea for a dress with a finer fabric. That summer top was created, as I mentioned in a previous needlework post (I think), from the remnants of my brother's cut up t-shirt that had been removed from his body in the ambulance during an emergency.
For the skirt part,
I had to sort out some fit issues by playing jigsaw puzzles with the fabric. Since I didn't want to do without the pockets, they had to remain on the side seam, however, I had already cut the top last year and then put it away, for lack of interest. Thus, upper part and lower part did not fit together from the circumference and so I had to add a strip of fabric in the front middle part, just like on the sides. Likewise, the back skirt section and top did not fit together.
The shenanigans I did
due to the top and bottom not actually matching are of course reflected in some of the wrinkles the fabric throws when worn, but as for the dress as a whole, I overlook these flaws as it would not have been made otherwise.
Using up a pair of men's pants that are no longer worn, as well as a skirt, justifies the whole affair, with the fun of the process and overcoming the problem being my greater motivation. I find it a bit dull to buy ready-made patterns and then just follow the lines that are given to me. I'd rather make my mistakes and seem to prefer learning the roundabout way.
Here you see the lining for the upper inner part, the piecing of the skirt and the sewing of the back neck/shoulder part.
In an early stage of the making. Seams stitched with red thread to fathom the fit. It turns out that ease all around is missing and I decide to sew in strips at front and sides.
I got the button from the sewing box my man discovered for me. It's quite a big case compared to the one I've been using so far! Unfortunately, the button has to go, as I can't get it to slip smoothly through the button loop because it's so rippled. It's annoying not being able to (un)dress oneself, even if the noble ladies of the manor houses had their chambermaids, I prefer to do the gymnastics from behind. Though I would immediately welcome some quiet hands doing braids in my hair.
I hope you enjoyed spending your time here.
All pictures without naming an official source underneath or next to it is my own work.
This is art rather than sewing, it’s beautiful and you are a “Super Talent”. I love the way you juxtapose the pieces to get the result you’re looking for, it’s intriguing. So nice if you can wear the clothes you make, too (as opposed to making for someone else)
The Flapper Age, is by far the most elegant when it comes to style, I think - nothing quite like those feather headbands and jiggly dresses. ❤️💕❤️💕❤️
:) What a cute picture.
Thank you for liking my needlework as an art-form. I see it this way, too.
I used to admire all the dressmakers and thought I would never in my life be able to sew something wearable for myself. It seemed like a very important skill to me to be independent of fashion. Now that I sew myself, I see that it does indeed take some skill. But especially spatial thinking and maths. Unfortunately, I'm not very good at it and probably need a lot more time fitting where I might be able to use a formula more quickly.
Here is one woman on yt where I sometimes get inspired by. This costume I really liked and would like to copy it once I can get hold of the proper fabric:
I think your work is lovely ❤️
I really enjoy the 1920s and 30s cultural eras. The first great war was over. The pandemic was abating. The world was new. There was a counter-cultural explosion as the lost generation experimented with new cultural forms and pharmaceuticals. I like your inventiveness, the mixing of styles. Your creations look classic, classy, and elegant.
Thanks for looking into my newest fashion and art journal.
The classic and elegant is to my taste. I like also the simplicity of the roman and greek fashion, where it's only fabric, draped and held just by some belts or jewelry - bummer this cannot be worn here, too cold. :(
This sounds like an interesting idea. I have a statuette of the Greek goddess Hygea and she looks rather lovely in her greek outfit. It's very sensous looking clothing.
Hello @erh.germany,
I love this 1920's dress you've crafted together from men's pants!
This dress compliments your body and face perfectly, as if the 20's style was made for you. This era of clothing is my favorite that you produce and I really feel like it suits you so nicely.
The way you organized all of the photos and the quality of the photos with such nice lighting and organizing is quite superb in my opinion and it shows that you put a lot of work in crafting a great quality post to go with this amazing dress.
You mention lacking the practice to make precision straight seams, but I think your seams look pretty precise, and I feel there is something special about visibly hand made sewn seams that I cannot explain really, but I find it attractive and think hand made clothing is the best.
The dress doesn't look like it would restrict your mobility at all, and I wonder if you tried dancing in it to test this out?
I love the paintings of yours that you snuck in the post. They are very good, you're a really talented painter too!
That sewing box is unbelievable, it's huge!
Amazing post my friend, can't wait to see you show us more of your talent in the future.
Hey my friend,
pleased to meet you here :) The fashion from the 20s I do like since I've got older. I would not have liked it in my younger years, though. One part is indeed because of the looseness and the convenience in wearing it.
You are right and I am happy that your sharp and observant eye always sees the details. It took me some time to work on the photographs and the lightening and so on. It was fun, like a one woman magazine workshop in which I was doing all the stuff myself.
HaHa, I was not dancing yet in the dress but I guess it wouldn't be a problem, look at the gents and ladies from the Beebop times or Charleston, they performed like crazy in their clothes :)
I thought of scaling up my paintings first (in original, they size around 50x70 centimeters) but then decided to "snuck" them in, like you said (again, an expression so far unfamiliar to me, thank you:) The ensemble fittet so well together.
I am not always clear what I would like to show, ... do you think, I should make a pure art/painting post? For I mostly and often choose "art" in my postings as a tag but maybe people understand art to be different from what I do.
Greetings my friend,
Thank you for the lovely response and kind words :)
I think we share similarities in the creative process, in that we go with the flow.
In my mind, there are various ways to look at it, and perhaps many would agree that maximizing posting content to maximize earning potential is probably the preferred (and most popular) method to use. (but is it the best method?)
However this can deteriorate the creative process by placing limitation on oneself, in my opinion. Meaning, if you were to create an art post separate from this one just for the sake of getting another post out of it, this post would have not had this really cool artistic addition.
The perceptive viewer will see your creative flow at work and how art spontaneity bursts from the depths of your imaginative process in real time, and is a very attractive talent you have.
The dress it art, your words are art, every bit of this post is artistic, so I don't see the paintings as out of place a single bit.
I think it would be cool to see some dedicated painting posts, but no matter what you decide to do I'm sure I will love it because you are one of the most talented women I know and you emanate art from your every pore.
I look forward to your future publications <3
I love this post!!! Loved every word. Makes me want to sew again, and I haven't wanted to do that for forty years or more. Excellent. Sorry it took me so long to come across this fabulous post.
Hello to you,
thank you, it is good to hear that it inspires you to start sewing again yourself. Sewing for me is being attached to the tangible world and to experience where the practice in continuing trials and errors serves me a certain satisfaction. I wouldn't know how to stay sane without it.
Have a fine weekend, owasco :)
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